Cremeria Gabriele in Vico Equense, review: the ice cream parlor every vacation destination deserves

For over seventy years, the Cuomo family, descendants of the founder Gabriele, have carried on the unchanged tradition of Neapolitan creameries, which they themselves "imported" to the Amalfi Coast to cheer the vacations of the wealthy of the time and tourists seeking the dolce vita. In early 20th-century Naples, people went to the creameries not only for milk and other fresh products, but also for gelato, sweets, and small colonial desserts to take away in a candy-colored whirlwind.

We visited this little piece of Campanian history, trying sweets and ice cream, and doing a little shopping. This is our review.

The environment

Cremeria Gabriele is located on one of Vico Equense's main streets, easily accessible from the square and the coastal road. Given the town's size, you'll have to drive around a bit to find a parking spot, or you may need to use private parking.

It presents itself as a small shop primarily dedicated to takeout: the counter runs from one side of the store to the other, with the dessert and gelato sections immediately visible, and the cheese and dairy display slightly further back. The space is designated for standing, with a few support tables. Overall, the atmosphere is very retro but well-kept, a little timeless.

Behind the counter you can often find the two brothers, Liberato and Raffaele Cuomo, who with kindness and courtesy recommend the most portable sweets or the most suitable cheeses for this or that use.

Ice cream, the experience

Just colonial, just ice cream, just pastry? It's a bit tricky to sum up the Cremeria Gabriele experience in just one word, but it's probably just "Cremeria": a place where you can buy fresh, colonial products, but also enjoy memorable snacks of Neapolitan pastries, ice cream, and very retro fruit cups.

The classic Neapolitan pastry section is the most surprising. And in a good way. In addition to vibrant colors and beautiful offerings (although based on great classics, from babà to tartlets to lobster tails), the counter and refrigerator also feature some old-fashioned Neapolitan desserts like coviglie, a kind of semifreddo that has practically disappeared from Neapolitan pastry shops.

The lemon caprese cake is heartwarming, fresh and satisfying to bite into. Cremeria Gabriele's iconic Lemon Delizia is a heavy, delicious hemisphere, perfect for taking away with a cup of lemon cream served appropriately on the side.

When it comes to shopping, the cheese section doesn't disappoint: predominantly Campanian products, including caciocavallo and goat cheese from the Lattari Mountains, but there's no shortage of treats from beyond the region.

Cremeria Gabriele's selection of baked goods and colonial desserts is lovely. In addition to some typical local liqueurs (like limoncello), there are the small babàs preserved in glass jars, which have become a must-have for anyone visiting these parts.

The Cremeria is probably best known for its gelato, which makes it a popular destination for people of all ages, especially younger ones. The gelato is served in tubs and features a strong focus on local ingredients: we find Annurca apple cream, ricotta cream, and Vesuvius black mulberry. The fruit pairings are interesting, fresh, and delicious, such as the Zanzibar cup: an old-fashioned name for a cup with mango sorbet, mulberry sorbet, and fresh Vesuvius mulberry garnish, to be eaten as if they were Morositas sweets.

The opinion

Prices are absolutely in line with the offerings and the research carried out here, especially considering Vico Equense's holiday-oriented nature: desserts start at €1.70 and go up. As for the ice cream, it's priced at €20.00 per kilo, with cones or cups ranging from €2.00 to €4.00. A brioche filled with ice cream or just cream is €2.50. Prices, all things considered, seem more than average for a holiday destination.

If you're passing through Vico Equense or the surrounding area, Cremeria Gabriele is worth the detour, perhaps for a refreshment of fruit and ice cream, or even a takeaway as a gastronomic souvenir.

Opinion

Every vacation destination deserves a Cremeria Gabriele, to sample a slice of the place you're staying in. Easy to say, but in practice it's a little more complicated: such establishments don't arise from nothing; they're complex layers of experiences, stories, travels, and gastronomic culture.

PRO

• A gastronomic stop for everyone, from the curious tourist to the gourmet.
• The selection is truly vast, from pastries to traditional products, with truly delicious ice cream.