Close Out Summer at Cineopera, L.A.’s Quirky New Rooftop Hangout With Movies

What to order

• Fritto misto makes for a satisfying bar snack. It leans on the saltier side — which I enjoy when paired with an ice-cold cocktail — and includes tangles of calamari, fried shrimp, zucchini, eggplant, and fries. Pops of cheese-stuffed peppers lighten the dish, as does a lemon wedge and spicy Calabrian chile aioli for dipping.
• The surprising combination of beets and lightly seared tuna is a winner in the beetello tonnato. The earthy sweetness of the beets works in stark contrast with the fresh, citrus-forward dressing of the tuna. Bright pickled onions kissed with the heat of habanero tie all the flavors together.
• Pasta pomodoro is a dish I don’t typically order because it feels a little boring, but Cineopera’s version flips the script. Fresh rigatoni arrives al dente with a satisfying chewiness while confit tomato sauce is buttery and full-bodied. Torn basil adds lightness and a shower of grated Parmesan provides a welcome saltiness.
• For dessert, don’t skip the panna cotta by pastry chef Ellen Ramos (who’s behind award-winning bakery Santa Canela). The panna cotta comes light and custardy, almost like a whipped cheesecake. Frigid lemon granita on top makes the whole bite deliciously cooling — the crunch of the ice against the velvety texture of the panna cotta feels revelatory.

The vibe

Cineopera still feels like a work in progress. Half of the rooftop space is closed off, which makes the environment weirdly hollow rather than bustling and energetic. We were told by staff that the menu was about to change — sandwiches are coming off — which makes the restaurant seem like it is still uncovering its new identity. In short, Cineopera has the bones to be great; as of now, it feels like it’s in an awkward growing stage.

Insider tip

Check the Cineopera website for specifics on what films are showing that week. You can even reserve recliner chairs for optimal viewing.