CasaManco in Rome: two reviews for the price of one for the pizza that rises for 100 hours
What you see at CasaManco isn't a long, thin peel, but a unique mix of the length of the pan, the shape of the peel, and the thickness of something in between. Although, it must be said, it's quite rare to find pizzas this tall yet so airy. At least in Rome.
Let's take a step back and talk about CasaManco. It all begins with a constantly packed stall at the new Testaccio Market. It's just a few square meters, with a tiny stall, number 22, that immediately stands out for its array of flavors.
Simpler creations, like the white and red, and then the heavily topped pizzas, best enjoyed in small pieces, with cured meats, cheeses, and a wealth of vegetables. There's the red one, the one with sesame seeds, which has become a staple of some pizza al taglio in Rome, then the pizza with potatoes or zucchini, the zucchini blossom and anchovy topping, but also the one with creamed cannellini beans, purple cabbage in vinegar, white cabbage in honey, garlic oil, or the one with mozzarella, mushrooms, robiola, lemon zest, parsley, chili pepper, and salmoriglio. In short, there's a little bit of everything.
Then, a few years ago, a more comfortable space arrived. Located in Trastevere, it has a beautiful central counter and an open kitchen where a chef has been stirring the supplì risotto for several minutes. The counter is the same, as is the pizza and the variety of toppings. The owners are the same: Andrea Salabè, who serves with an enviable, seraphic technique that stands up even to the hordes at the Testaccio market, and Paola Manco, who I also saw at the pizza parlor. This new place has a few small seating areas, so it's more accessible than the previous one. It's also a great place to introduce this type of pizza to foreigners. And please, don't call it pinsa (and there are two).
I've already said something about the pizza. I'll add a few details: the dough is very fragrant when baked, the crust is well-defined and richly airy, the semolina adds extra crunch, then a heroic leavening—100 hours—and a mix of soft wheat and spelt flours. There's just one small problem, seen mostly at the market and perhaps attributable to a complex management of time and space: sometimes the burning gets out of control. Otherwise, it's a very pleasant and very flattering pizza. It's nice that you can try super classic flavors as well as things like pizza with pears, gorgonzola, walnuts, mozzarella, and honey, or the Persian pizza with fried white onions, turmeric, feta, pomegranate, dates, cinnamon, and mozzarella.
Let's look at the prices, which are structured as follows: pizza is sold by weight and cut directly at the counter with a complex interplay of knife and peel (a pan makes it a little easier). Prices start at 11 euros for a white pizza, 13 for a sesame pizza, 18 for a "carnivore" pizza, 20 for a traditional pizza, and finally, the modern pizza at 22.
Small side note: this review summarizes the experience at both pizzerias, which, aside from the space, have the same prices, the same selection, and the same flavors. One is just a little more comfortable. The beverage selection is also identical, though fairly basic.
Opinion
CasaManco is one of Rome's top spots (or rather, two) for pizza by the slice. Come here to try a modern pizza by the slice, with a wide variety of flavors to suit everyone.
PRO
- Variety and uniqueness of tastes
- Relaxed service
- Pleasantness and digestibility of the dough
AGAINST
- Cooking requires greater control. Occasionally, a few too many burns appear.
