Antica Trattoria del Reno in Bologna, review: BBQ heaven

Looking back, one of the most significant gastronomic developments of the last ten years has been the revitalization of the concept of grilled meat. Many restaurants still offer this specialty according to the traditional concept of mixed grill: sausage, ribs, and pork chops, which can be enhanced with slices of mutton if you're heading towards the Romagna side, or Florentine steak if you're climbing the Emilian Apennines. These classic cuts are cooked directly over hot coals without much preparation, at most a brief marinade or the aroma of rosemary.

It's no secret that the latest trend from the United States has profoundly revolutionized this field in every aspect, from the choice of meat to the aging, preparation, and finally cooking. The preferred cuts of beef are those with good marbling, or the presence of intramuscular fat, which gives the meat flavor and tenderness. This trend extends to the selection of cattle breeds that excel in this characteristic, such as Wagyu.

Chianina beef rib eye steak is no longer the undisputed queen of the grill, the ultimate choice for our Florentine steak. Instead, it comes from cows and steers of various breeds, preferably raised outdoors, fed on grass, and perhaps slaughtered at an advanced age. Their meat is aged for varying lengths in humidity- and temperature-controlled refrigeration units. Pork cuts require different treatments, typically requiring gentler cooking over moderate heat and a bolder flavor from the rub, a blend of spices, herbs, and other ingredients used in typical American BBQ style. Lovers of these specialties in Bologna, willing to spend a little more than the usual grilled fare, have a sort of embassy outside the city limits, near the airport, at the end of a cul-de-sac bordering the Reno River and opening onto the spacious outdoor area of ​​the Antica Trattoria del Reno, transformed a few years ago into a true gourmet steakhouse. In addition to the menu with some fixed options, there are many variations on the types of meat available and the house also offers a menu with a decent selection of wines and beers.

From appetizer to dessert, every course has a barbecue flavor, starting with the smoked butter served with the excellent beef tartare with balsamic vinegar, Maldon salt, and brioche bread, up to the delicately smoky Fabbri cherries that accompany the cream ice cream.

The pairings are convincing even when they lean toward the Italian tradition of stuffed pasta; indeed, the playful streak that runs through these creations is particularly appreciated for their ability to offer highly valid alternatives. Particularly popular in this regard are the pulled pork tortelli ("il porcello nascosto" €18), with their overwhelming flavor and bold yet persistent smoky notes, seasoned with butter and zucchini flowers. Likewise, the fantastic braised cheek cannelloni ("testa coda" €18)—applause for the choice of shape—with a delicate hay béchamel sauce: a dish that combines the rounded flavor of the meat with subtle spicy notes.

The restaurant's highlight, of course, remains the rib-eye steak, which reigns supreme in the on-site refiners, amidst entire slabs of moldy white meat patiently waiting under glass. The aging experiments with beeswax, beef fat, and hay butter promise to reveal truly exquisite delicacies. The blackboard on the table announces various specialties that rotate constantly throughout the year, depending on market availability and the end of the aging period. On this occasion, there are available a Hokkaido Wagyu aged in beef tallow for 130 days (at the not exactly popular price of 60 euros per 100 grams), a 12-year-old El Capricho Friesian (raised by Jose Gordon, one of the best-known Spanish breeders and refiners) dry-aged for 80 days (13 euros per 100 grams), a Parma cow, a Polish Red Angus, an Irish Peat Aberdeen and a Salamanca Charra cow (all between 7 and 8 euros per 100 grams).

In addition, you can choose between pork ribs and beef brisket in the original American barbecue flavor, or the sliced ​​picanha steak with chimichurri sauce. El Capricho's Friesian steak lives up to its promise: a perfectly char-grilled exterior with pungent hints of smoke, and a firm, creamy interior with an intense, deep flavor. The meat has concentrated its aromas and increased the tenderness of its fibers during the maturation period, revealing its full potential on the table. The pork ribs (€19), glazed with a particularly spicy and sweet rub, are appreciable from the first bites, but in the long run, they risk tiring those who aren't true American BBQ fans. They're undoubtedly worth a try for the exceptional quality of the meat and the perfect low-temperature cooking. Pairing this dish with the potato puff pastry with mountain butter offered on the menu is particularly apt.

End on a sweet note with shortcrust pastry baskets filled with diplomatica cream, smoked blueberries, and mint leaves, or with a white chocolate dessert with chocolate biscuit crumble and strawberries. This is the place for all lovers of great grilled meats who want to try something new, and for those who already know the premium cuts and don't want to give them up.

Opinion

A restaurant dedicated to quality meat, both in terms of breed and cut selection, and in terms of maturation and cooking. A true temple to American-style BBQ, offering a variety of smoked and grilled specialties. High quality and a perfect dose of creativity, along with meticulously cooked grills, make it a must-visit for lovers of the genre.

AGAINST

• Be careful of the cost of meat which can sometimes be very high.