03 October 2026 · Vol. XXXIV · № 12.328 Get the letterSearchSaved
THE APEX GASTRONOMY CHRONICLE
Food The Exchange & The CounterThe Wire The IndexThe Bureau
LATEST
Do you remove vegetables from bags before putting them in the refrigerator? The mistake that can make them last less●“Vegetarian options” restaurants in Brixen●The tastiest crust on your casserole: which cheese is best to use?●Goulash 7x Different: Proven Recipes with Meat, Potatoes and Mushrooms. They're Even Better the Next Day●The custard dessert has a luxurious feel thanks to its layers. It is decorated with alternating dark and light●Braceria San Lorenzo, the Viterbo restaurant where fire reigns supreme●5 fragrant apple cookies that will fill the whole house with warmth●From animal to table●Kitchen refresh: Outdated trends to avoid●Reiwa's Gourmet King, Ryū Hamasaki, takes notice! A salt ramen of ramen specialty shop quality found at a soba restaurant in Kitashinchi●When Far Eastern citrus meets gin and tonic: the Calamansi & Tonic recipe●Sticking cloves into a lemon: an increasingly popular old wives' remedy●
The Exchange & The Counter
Tokaj on the plate – Attila Bicsár from the summer kitchen of Sauska Padi

Tokaj on the plate – Attila Bicsár from the summer kitchen of Sauska Padi

Many dishes at Sauska Padi's kitchen are inspired by the question: which wine or champagne will go best with it? The restaurant doesn't just prepare dishes, but a gastronomic experience that reflects the character of the wine region.

In addition to the à la carte menu, our restaurant also offers a seasonal tasting menu with optional wine pairing, and we also have a special five-course menu dedicated to the wine region called Homage to Tokaj. We are a restaurant in a winery, and we take this very seriously: we want to prepare dishes that are worthy companions to Tokaj wines and champagnes – says Attila Bicsár, executive chef of Sauska 48 and Sauska Padi.

Guinea fowl soup, schupfnoodles, mangalicatarja

The origin of everything is Hungarian home cooking. – These flavors are closest to us. We like to keep them in the center, and then of course we always add a twist or two to them so that the end result is both familiar and exciting.

This approach can also be seen on the current summer menu. For example, the classic "Sunday soup" is not abandoned even in the warmer months.

Now we are making guinea fowl soup with pork loin and crunchy vegetables. Swabian traditions still live on in this region, which is why schupfnudli is also on the menu, served with mangalica tongue and sour potato salad. There is also mangalicatarja with lecsó and fermented green beans – this is a truly homely Hungarian dish, which in its simplicity is a great experience for both our Hungarian and foreign guests.

Schupfnudli – often referred to simply as sufnudli in Hungary – is a typical potato noodle dish of Swabian cuisine, which is still a living tradition in the Tokaj area.

Airy fish dishes, peaceful desserts, fragrant apricots

Of course, there is a lot of interest in lighter dishes in the summer. According to the chef, it is especially difficult to compete with sea fish at this time, but they still manage to offer an alternative that fits perfectly with the world of Tokaj white wines.

The smoked trout and perch are exactly what our guests appreciate: elegant, airy bites that go great with dry white wines and champagnes. The minerality of Furmint, for example, makes a wonderful sauce base, which we also use with the perch.

The desserts also evoke well-known Hungarian classics. – We take a peaceful line: cottage cheese strudel with dill-sour cream ice cream, and apple pie with apricot jam. Our resident chef Máté Gerák brought fresh peaches from Gönc just before our interview, so the canning season is starting for us these days.

It is no coincidence that the fruit comes from Gönc. This little jewel box of the Zemplén Mountains is not only known for the Gönc barrel associated with Tokaj wines: the circle of local producers engaged in apricot cultivation began to form in the 19th century. Interestingly, the risk of cultivation is the lowest here, as the cold winters are the most uniform in this region.

Small plate concept launched at Bar

Just like in the restaurant, the champagne bar is also introducing new features. The small plate concept debuted in mid-July, which focuses on a more casual exploration of wines and champagnes, currently available on select weekends.

Fish, shellfish, chicken, beef and steak are also on offer, and you can even choose different wines or champagnes by the glass with the dishes. We will be returning several times during the summer with this weekend program, complete with a DJ, as the initial feedback was very good.

Thoughts and plans are already racing ahead towards the next season. As every autumn, the Zemplén Mountains will provide the main inspiration this year as well.

We'll go to the forest, see what mushrooms and berries show themselves, and then the game will follow. We'll build a new menu and guided dinners on this. We'll plan these together with Sebastian Giraldo, my five-time Hungarian champion sommelier colleague, who guides the guests through the wine pairings with amazing knowledge and humor.

More The Exchange & The Counter