01 October 2026 · Vol. XXXIV · № 12.326 Get the letterSearchSaved
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Niklas Ekstedt's tribute to “Swedish brown old man food”

Niklas Ekstedt's tribute to “Swedish brown old man food”

Star chef on Swedish dishes: "A little forgotten"

That Swedish food is also popular abroad was evident when star chef Niklas Ekstedt was asked to launch a cookbook in the UK, which earlier this year resulted in “My Classics”. Here he talks about the dishes that attract foreign guests and takes the opportunity to take a swipe at brown “old man’s food”.

Which dishes in Swedish cuisine are foreign guests most curious about at your restaurant? – Too many are.

meatballs are the only thing they know. But apart from home-pickled salmon, which always arouses great interest,

Jansson's temptation and Hasselback potatoes are something people want to try.

Is there something you think we in Sweden are blind to and would like to raise a little extra? – Swedish brown “gubbmat”. By that I mean classics that have unfortunately become a bit forgotten, such as

steak Rydberg and steak Greta. Both are really nice party food, I think. It's a bit strange how things have also changed when it comes to what is considered a party and everyday life. In the past, entrecote with bearnaise sauce was perhaps only eaten on New Year's Eve. Now it's a regular weekend meal. At the same time, everyday dishes like pickled herring and kroppkakor have turned into something exclusive that you cook once a year.

What makes us unique in terms of Swedish food traditions, is there anything that stands out? – We have a tradition of unique potato dishes to cherish. We do eat quite a lot of potatoes, but they are seen as a side dish, much like rice or pasta. Traditional potato dishes are starting to disappear. It's a shame because potatoes are a fantastic raw material – they are relatively cheap, nutritious and taste good. So cook more.

Do you have a favorite potato dish of your own? – A real homemade one.

A little bit of pie in the pan – how good is that?

Niklas Ekstedt

Age: 47 years old

What: Chef and restaurateur, program host, cookbook author, etc. Runs the one-starred Ekstedt, Hillenberg and the wine bar Tyge and Sessil in Stockholm, as well as Ekstedt at the Yard in London.

Current with: Earlier this year released the cookbook "Mina klässikker" (Book publisher Max Ström). Preparing Christmas dinner for the 13th year in a row at the Old National Archives on Riddarholmen in Stockholm. Recently became a jury member in another season of "Sveriges mästerkock", which will be broadcast in 2027.

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