Osteria al Cicheto in Venice: A Review
If the art of hiding were rewarded with awards and medals, Osteria al Cicheto would deserve a well-deserved place. In Venice, whose very identity is labyrinthine and which has transformed getting lost in its streets into an element of charm, a place with a name undoubtedly typical and identifying with the city in which it is located, but which is as worthy as a "Bar Sport" in any Italian village,
Not that you need to travel a long way to get there, quite the opposite: among the small group of city trattorias worth visiting, it's certainly the most convenient, located just minutes from the Santa Lucia train station. The fact is that, while the masses, once off the train, begin to absentmindedly wander toward Lista di Spagna and Strada Nova to take the usual route to Rialto, dotted with unsavory eateries, very few indulge in sideways detours. If they do, it's either an unwitting mistake or, in the remaining cases, a very conscious change of direction regarding the final destination, as in this case. To paraphrase Edgar Allan Poe, Osteria al Cicheto is a bit like "The Purloined Letter," the theme of one of the writer's most famous stories: hidden in the most conspicuous spot, camouflaged among the crowd of similar ones.
The place
Just like many other bacari that double their offerings by offering cicchetti alongside food, this place also has a dual spirit: that of a small, multiple-course tasting, perhaps at the outdoor bar, and that of a more comprehensive culinary offering, from appetizers to dessert. The size perfectly embodies the phrase "cozy atmosphere": two small rooms, one dominated by a beautifully arranged counter with cicchetti and various products (special mention for the cheeses, which demonstrate expertise), high tables, and stools; the other is occupied by just a handful of tables.
Above all, wine defines an identity that helps define Al Cicheto as a reference point in the city. Tastefully arranged shelves and small wooden boxes reflect the owners' experience and careful selection: artisanal producers, niche wineries, and natural wines transform what from the outside might seem like just another bacaro-osteria into a must-visit in Venice. It's no coincidence that regulars here include well-known faces from the city's restaurant scene, who come to taste, sample, and learn. Finally, a special mention goes to the service: the Salin brothers, at the helm, manage both the dining room and kitchen with courtesy, attentiveness, professionalism, and discretion.
The menu and the dishes
For those who want to pay homage to the restaurant's name by starting with a round of cicchetti, just one word of caution: moderation, as the cuisine here is truly worth it, and it would be a shame not to sample as much as possible, especially since the menu's variety and prices are competitive, bordering on unconventional in a city like Venice. The menu offers fish and meat dishes, following tradition but departing from it with forays that still maintain the trattoria's scale.
The real plus, however, are the fixed-price menus (offered for dinner, but the same dishes are also available at lunch): two or three courses (26 or 36 euros respectively) ranging from the great Venetian classics (cod, sardines in saor, fried fish, spaghetti with ink or clams, pasta and beans, cuttlefish, Venetian-style liver) to regional and seasonal dishes (bigoli "co l'anara" with duck, sliced duck, pork cheeks, vegetable and cheese flans). Also noteworthy is the dessert selection: besides the obvious tiramisu, the cakes, panna cotta, and mousses are decidedly more interesting.
Overall, the impression of artisanal craftsmanship and homemade quality is undeniable. The pumpkin flan, with dairy fondue and porcini mushrooms, is tender and beautifully defined, with full, distinct flavors. The pumpkin pie avoids the always-dangerous monotonous effect, and the sweetness of the pumpkin is instead enhanced by both the Friulian cheese and the forest flavor of the mushrooms. The homemade bigoli co l'anara (a kind of pasta with duck) are coarse, full-bodied, and clinging to the sauce. Served "in red," they're forgiven for only a slight excess of oil, but overall they convey a fine image of Venetian country cuisine (with references to the courtyard and the countryside and, for history buffs, even to the villas of the patrician families), which one rarely gets the chance to sample in the city.
Finally, a single-serving version of the tenerina cake, with the perfect balance between crust and filling. The chocolate and raspberry pairing is a given, but the coulis has the right acidity and consistency to complement the chocolate. Here, however, each actor plays their assigned role to the fullest. The presentations are free of artistic pretensions, but simply welcoming, perfectly reflecting the atmosphere at the table.
Opinion
Hidden from the crowds, yet strategically located just steps from the Santa Lucia train station, Osteria al Cicheto is a small bacaro (a typical Venetian tavern) serving artisanal, well-executed dishes. Welcoming and courteous management, and above all, a carefully curated, innovative wine selection showcasing artisanal producers, make this a must-visit in Venice.
AGAINST
- Limited space: reservations are recommended, if not required.
