At 384 in Rome, review: the Balduina pizzeria that wanted to be “gourmet”
It's none other than the street number of the address, "384" on Via delle Medaglie d'Oro, where Roberto Ferrone's pizza has found its home, in the Balduina neighborhood of Rome.
The "gourmet" aspiration is also reflected in the presentation of the products, in the prices, and in the condiments. We could reflect on the opportunities offered by this type of language; in fact, we've discussed it on these pages, emphasizing both its confusing and uncodified nature and its one fixed point: research into ingredients, doughs, and flours. Something we now expect everywhere, even from historic brands.
The menu at Al 384
Let's dive deeper to focus on the individual experience and understand whether or not there's any real research. Let's start with the menu, which can be scanned at this link. It's divided into fried foods, appetizers, "Innovation" pizzas, "Tradition" pizzas, and other dishes, finishing with desserts. The menu, especially the pizzas, isn't endless: there are 16 pizzas in total, and you can also choose from some tempting off-menu options. As for prices, we're confident they'll range from 10 to 20 euros.
Pizza: the dough
The pizza arrives at the table, sliced and topped, slice by slice. The dough, presumably made with flours whose bags are very close to my dinner, is handled with great care. The slices are topped with very precise yet, all things considered, careful attention. The crispiness, aided by the electric oven, and the complete absence of burning, prevail, for a result that almost recalls the world of pizza alla pala, due to the lightness and consistency of the dough. There's no heaviness in the bite; the crust is generous but not invasive.
Pizza: the toppings
This pizza's identity is indeed quite original, yet still welcoming. Not entirely original, however, is the attempt to enhance the offering by using predictable ingredients, which inevitably drive up the price: Mazara del Vallo prawns, Pata Negra, the ubiquitous guanciale, beef tartare, and Cantabrian anchovies. A red flag for the pizza that revisits the parmigiana: it may be delicious, but it's January, and seasonality isn't even the basis for sourcing the ingredients; it's actually the entrance test.
Fried foods
Before the pizza, we move on to a selection of very tempting fried foods, something for all tastes. Lately, I/we've gotten used to seeing croquettes and supplì so ornate, so puffy, they're unrecognizable, buried under tons of toppings. Not here; here, we look each other in the eye.
Drinks, service, atmosphere
As for beverages, we offer a selection of craft bottles and Baladin on tap. We also have a wine list featuring selections from various Italian regions, not just Lazio, at low markups and very affordable prices for a meal. The service is welcoming and very friendly, without being overbearing. The atmosphere is very pleasant and refreshing, regardless of personal taste, which should factor as little as possible into any review. So be it.
Opinion
Al 384 is a decidedly above-average pizza spot, recommended to those who enjoy experimenting and aren't stuck with the usual "Neapolitan" or "Roman" definition. It's also a great choice for those seeking an experience more akin to a restaurant than a pizzeria, as we've come to know it. A few areas to work on: the toppings, in terms of choice and quantity, and the resulting quality/price ratio. Finally, if the flours aren't blended, it would be interesting to try a more sophisticated approach.
