Borgo della Mistica, a countryside restaurant with a pool, pizza, and tonic wines in Rome
Borgo della Mistica. This historical moment demands a place like Borgo della Mistica, and Borgo della Mistica has opened. On the border between city and countryside, the ideal boundary between Rome and non-Rome, a farmhouse with farmland has been renovated and reimagined for full-service hospitality.
The idea and project are by Fortunato Federic and his family, who invested in the Tenuta della Mistica estate, in the eastern part of Rome, where esteemed organizations such as the Capodarco Agricultural Cooperative and the Capitano Ultimo Volunteer Association already operate. "The farmhouses you see are the ones that once existed. The structure is a four-sided portico with a courtyard in the center. This farmhouse once had a tool shed," says Fortunato, pointing to the structure near the pool, "the main house over there, and a pigsty on the other side. Then there was the entire surrounding countryside. It was a farm until 100 years ago. Then it fell into neglect." The former agricultural use is undergoing a gradual rebirth here, with the olive trees that will be used to produce oil again, the herb and botanical garden, the winemaking room, and the vineyards that will be added as part of a long-term vision.
Supporting the idea was the team at Supervoid Architects (we've previously discussed them for the Pizzicàrola workshop), who worked with Fortunato to enhance the space, preserving authentic elements and adding ultramodern supports in PVC, metal, and pigmented concrete. A natural pool for adults and children sits in front of the structure: "I've been working on this project for about five years. There was an idea to create apartments here. The first time I came here, I said, 'It's not possible, this place needs something else.' I spent two years on this authorization process with the Superintendency." The structure was falling apart, but all the existing masonry was recovered.
“I added something of my own,” says Fortunato, “the central bar, the organization of the spaces, the flowerbeds at the entrance,” but also the plants that sprout from the interior floor in a seamless transition from inside to outside.
Inside, a simple space, with metal and industrial elements, is characterized by minimalism and a completely open design. "We're very far from the concept of agritourism. I don't mean that in a negative sense, but it doesn't represent us." Before coming here, Fortunato oversaw the hospitality offerings at Terme di Vulci, establishing a glamping site, a food service, and a spa, all designed to enhance leisure time and the natural environment.
In the kitchen of Borgo della Mistica, we find chef Ornella De Felice with a very clear idea of the gastronomic story she wants to tell. “If you come here, you find the landscape on your plate. All the elements of this place have a great agricultural, rural, and scenic appeal. We have a portion of the Alessandrino Aqueduct, we have lots of countryside, Antonio's 300 sheep, a shepherd who makes exceptional ricotta, a structure full of elements and contrasts. It's an opportunity to create so many different contents for a wonderful container,” says Ornella. “The first time I came here, there was nothing. I was impressed because I've always dreamed of a work project like this. After spending many years in the city center, with a market that was partly touristy, partly Roman, but very demanding, here I had the opportunity to embrace tradition, but in a different way.”
The menu offers a wide variety of choices, including vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. There's a fried food menu, followed by a pizza menu made in collaboration with Frumento, a restaurant in Rome with two takeout locations. A Roman-inspired pizza, but not entirely Roman, with a slightly crispy, thin crust, and around twenty options, including traditional pizzas and toppings created specifically for Borgo. Like the Tre Latti with “Latterie Gargiulo” fiordilatte, ricotta della Mistica, montecapra, 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, mixed herbs, or the Guanciapiena with fiordilatte, yellow-fleshed potatoes, “Cibaria” bacon, “Cibaria” pecorino Romano DOP, whiskey-flavoured shallots, black pepper or the Litorale with “Italianavera” tomatoes, “Cascina Manfredi” stracciatella di Andria, “De Carlo” semi-dried cherry tomatoes, “Predio Potantino” wild oregano, Taggiasca olives, and raw “Flaminio” extra virgin olive oil.
In the single menu (there is no separate proposal for pizzeria and restaurant) the fried pizzelle, bruschetta, starters, first courses, second courses and side dishes, many of which are Roman and local products that end up in the potato gnocchi with wild herb pesto, walnuts and sheep's milk giuncata from Mistica (13), the boiled meat croquettes Picchiapò style, celery and home-made mustard mayonnaise (12), the “Pastificio Mancini” spaghetti with three tomatoes and mustìa ricotta (12), the organic chicken stuffed with raw ham, sage and mustard, sautéed chicory and baked potatoes with cacciatore sauce (19), but also the beetroot carpaccio marinated in raspberry vinegar, white melon, fresh almond cheese, black cabbage chips (13).
“I designed it as an open, free menu. There's nothing difficult, inconsistent, or dissonant; there are no flights of fancy. As a customer, I often eat out, and I really appreciate those places where I sit and know exactly where I am. It's a time for honesty. And here you can do just that: relax your mind and gaze,” comments Ornella. The menu concludes with desserts, one of the chef's signature dishes, with seven options ranging from €5 to €8, such as the dark chocolate cake with salted caramel and whipped cream or the homemade maritozzo with ricotta cream.
The wine list, designed by F&B manager Heros Tedesco, offers a nice selection of bottles ranging from €25 to €40 (the Nebbiolo di Monte Maletto is a bit more expensive), most of which are available by the glass. Opening the list via QR code doesn't look like a phone book, but a series of categories with different choices that encourage you to browse by theme.
It opens with a wide selection of Italian sparkling wines ("for now," says Heros, "we wanted to showcase Italianness"), two house wines, wines from our region, namely those from Lazio, wines from Veneto, specifically chosen by Heros to showcase its homeland, wines from the islands, and, finally, Italian classics and sweet wines. At the center is a box showcasing stone wines made from extreme agriculture, biodynamic wines, and fresh, invigorating wines, a light-hearted way to explore the concept of "natural" wines—which are also present in other categories—without becoming stuck. "Placed in that category, giving it a graphic sense, they're much easier to understand. But they're not extreme wines. I envision wines and categories that will come and go. Maybe we'll showcase Tuscany, Trentino. I didn't want to identify wines by color; let's identify them where they come from," explains Heros.
For now, Borgo della Mistica is open Tuesday through Sunday for dinner and aperitivo (for which the menu is currently being developed), and also for lunch on Saturdays and Sundays. The pool will officially open in June, and with that, a poolside lunch menu will follow, featuring a more streamlined, convenient, and summery menu, ideally allowing guests to enjoy the space at any time of day. Alongside the poolside concept, a more comprehensive bar menu will also be developed, featuring cocktails and short-order botanicals. The restaurant seats a considerable amount, 150 indoors and outdoors, with room to grow. But there will be opportunities for testing and experimentation while the relationship between the dining room and kitchen is solidifying. The pool, however, remains open to all.
Borgo della Mistica. Viale Marisa Bellisario 300, Rome. Tel. 06 69398505. Website. Facebook. Instagram.
