03 October 2026 · Vol. XXXIV · № 12.328 Get the letterSearchSaved
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The Exchange & The Counter
Spirits and catering, a question of awareness

Spirits and catering, a question of awareness

Curious kitchen, fearful room

In the kitchen, there's undoubtedly a desire to experiment. "This will bring awareness," Canessa explains, "because inexperience can't speak the same language as knowledge. Chefs also want to use spirits in dishes: they work as seasonings, add a unique aromatic component, and can be a distinctive element. However, there's not full awareness, because experience is lacking."

In the dining room, the situation is different: "There's fear," the expert explains, "derived from inexperience and an often misunderstood perception of price. The spirit is not offered diluted or in small doses, and therefore remains distant. We're still at a very early stage."

Read labels, open bottles

How do you approach the most timid? "The answer is simple," jokes Canessa, "go behind the counters, open the spirits cabinets, turn the bottles over while you dust them, and read the labels. Spark their curiosity."

Many people own cognacs with acronyms like VSOP or XO without knowing their meaning. "Behind every bottle lies a world of stories and pairings. You have to remove the cork and taste what's inside: many people have no direct tasting experience."

The alcohol barrier

The main obstacle is cultural: the word "spirits." "It's an obsolete term," says Canessa, "because spirits should be judged without preconceptions. It all depends on quantity and dilution. Once you get over the fear, you discover flavors that deserve a place on the menu."

How ready is the public? "Today, many people don't know how to eat," Canessa provocatively admits, "and rely on communication and reputation. But if I bring something to the table that delivers on the promise of a unique experience, I win. A great spirit or a perfect cocktail paired with a thoughtful dish can make all the difference."

From whisky to rum… to sgroppino

To begin, whisky is the most immediate spirit: everyone has heard of it, and it allows for simple explanations of blends and single malts. In an ideal world, however, we should start with fruit brandies: smelling a pear brandy and rediscovering its essence is a dazzling experience.

Rum is a polyphonic universe: Jamaica can recall the island of Islay in certain flavors, while Barbados and Martinique possess elegance comparable to the Speyside of whisky. It takes knowledge and training in hospitality schools to truly understand it.

Italian Spirits and New Perspectives

Italy boasts extraordinary excellence, but also products that risk damaging the reputation of a category. Grappa suffers from its legacy of being drunk neat and used as a quick digestif. "Let's change perspective," Canessa urges, "an excellent spirit can transform the experience."

The sgroppino, often mistreated, can become a memorable dessert with quality ingredients: fine rums, artisanal sorbets, and meticulous techniques. For example, at Lucio (Rimini) they serve a sgroppino with Hampden Estate 1753 and cocoa mass sorbet.

"If there's a crisis," Canessa concludes, "we stop offering the 'final drop' at no cost and focus on quality, from coffee to after-dinner drink. We need someone who can explain and support the pairings: then the customer enjoys it and the offer becomes sustainable."

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