The trattoria where Venetians go to get the best view of the city
Island of the tanners, the island that first hosted a Jewish quarter, Spinalonga (perhaps because of its elongated shape), and the island of seals (certainly because of the cold and windy winter months).
The place and, above all, the view
Even if you're desperately hungry, upon arriving at the Cacciatori, you'll always experience those two or three minutes when the food takes a back seat, giving way to what more or less all guidebooks call an "unparalleled view" or a "breathtaking panorama." The point is that, truly, even abandoning stereotypes and catalog phrases, the view is remarkable and an integral part of the gastronomic experience, almost surpassing the food. Whichever table you choose, the terrace guarantees a privileged, even exclusive, view of the Zattere, across the canal, and beyond, the Basin of San Marco. Just a short distance from the Cacciatori, for example, are Harry's Dolci, a Cipriani-branded Giudecca annex, and the Stucky Hilton, the group's luxury hotel.
Once they've recovered from the view, the restaurant presents itself to its customers with an honest soul: a trattoria seating 40-50 people, both inside and out, solidly managed for nearly twenty years by two partners. The presence of a predominantly local clientele speaks volumes: those who come here simply want to enjoy a meal out, in an authentic, pleasant, quiet, almost homely setting, knowing they'll find exactly what they're looking for, and above all, without the swarms of tourists and the resulting risk of disappointment. It must be said, however, that in recent years, even the Venetian and traditional character of the Cacciatori has been influenced by the presence of tourists: not markedly, of course, but by introducing a few popular national dishes to satisfy the typical requests of foreigners.
The dishes, between Venetian and more comfortable options
The menu features a variety of meat and fish options, with prices ranging from €7 to €18 for appetizers, €9 to €16 for first courses, and €14 to €20 for second courses. Alongside Venetian staples (including saor, mantecato, spaghetti with clams and cuttlefish in ink), you'll find more dynamic options (maccheroncini with calamari, pesto, and cherry tomatoes; red tuna tartare) and dishes geared toward tourists (bruschetta, lasagna Bolognese, sliced steak, and roast chicken). The wine list follows suit, offering regional and national selections. Rather than expectations, you begin with one certainty: that of finding dishes executed correctly, without pretension or flights of fancy. The first course is a risotto with cream of scampi: the execution and cooking of the rice are perfect (a couple of minutes less would perhaps have done justice to the sauce), and the overall flavor is delicate, with the tomato adding a touch of color. The wording “cream” is honest: the quantity of scampi present – limited – actually lives up to the promise.
Nothing wrong, in short, except for the serving temperature—a lukewarm, feeble temperature that undermines everything: cooking, flavor, and seasoning. What a shame. Among the main courses, we try the pistachio-crusted swordfish steak with an orange sauce reduction. A deliberately risky choice (we see people ordering and serving catch of the day or cuttlefish in ink), but it nevertheless allows us to appreciate—for a classic "fish-steak" dish—the chef's skill in cooking and garnishing. Unfortunately, the presentation—vaguely hospital-like, with green beans as a side dish, placed on a square plate that clashes with the classically styled one on which the risotto was served—a foreshadows what lies ahead on the palate. The flavorless, vaguely stringy meat, a grainy texture that, while crunchy, saves the rest of the dish, is nonetheless bland, and the overly sweet notes of the orange add to the same mistake made with the first course: the temperature, once again in a nondescript limbo. It goes better with dessert: despite a spartan glass with a wafer that was meant to be decorative, the chocolate mousse has the taste and flavor of dark chocolate.
Opinion
A historic restaurant on Giudecca Island, Ai Cacciatori offers traditional cuisine alongside more tourist-oriented options. While in the past, however, the restaurant's distinctive and distinctive character was more evident, even in its preparation, the cuisine has now perhaps lost some of its luster, becoming self-centered and failing to express its best qualities.
PRO
- View of Venice
AGAINST
- Dishes that suffer from a certain lack of character.
