Cosmopolitan or provincial?
Every summer, a horde of tourists in swimsuits and flip-flops descends on the ruins of Diocletian's Palace in the Croatian city of Split, fueled by mass-produced ice cream, ready-made pizzas, and bargain-basement hamburgers.
That image haunts me every time I stumble across another new sushi place, Argentinian empanada joint, ramen shop, or focaccia bar, while historic restaurants and characterful bars close one by one. We pride ourselves on being a gastronomic destination, but Bilbao's streets are losing their identity, becoming filled with fast-food chains, disguised franchises, ready-made meals masquerading as affordable luxury, and repetitive menus: tartare, burrata, gyoza…
Turning our village into an airport lobby isn't an expression of cosmopolitanism, but of narrow-minded provincialism. True worldliness isn't simply offering travelers what they already know, but being able to offer them something unexpected. I'm surprised, for example, that no one has yet thought of opening a decent talo shop. How many travelers wouldn't prefer to discover the Basque cousin of the taco rather than settle for something they can order for delivery in Boston, Munich, or Amsterdam?
I don't need to explain the power of good food to attract visitors. Gastronomic tourism was invented right next door, in San Sebastián, a city that also pioneered the expulsion of its own inhabitants from the Old Town. Will we follow the same path? We're at a crossroads: learn from our neighbor's mistakes or resign ourselves to being just another bland backdrop.
The alternative is as simple—and as complex—as choosing establishments that Bilbao locals can frequent with pride: taverns where local produce and talent shine, wine bars that celebrate our rich winemaking heritage, traditional restaurants, and, of course, international cuisine with a distinct character. The discerning tourist will know how to lead us to these places. We're not condemned to resemble Split, nor do we need to aspire to be Copenhagen. We simply need to remain Bilbao.
