Sottocasa Pizzeria Cucina Tata in Rome: A Review

There are, however, a thousand simple yet sophisticated businesses, designed to meet the needs of the end user (sic!). And, surprisingly, they are the ones that keep the restaurant industry afloat, a sector that isn't driven by the revenues of fine dining restaurants but by bars, pizzerias, and small, medium, and large neighborhood businesses.

In the silence of the entire press of our damned industry, which lives off who knows what, who knows who, to advance who knows what interests. Not the ordinary consumer, the one who perhaps even ignores quality products, or who eats them without much thought.

For this seemingly chimera of a consumer, the gastro-chic type, neighborhood restaurants are the fabric of life: Saturday nights, Sunday lunches, birthdays with grandparents, outings with your first girlfriend. Discovering one of these places and highlighting its concrete strengths is so innovative that we almost feel like pioneers. Because who on earth would travel all the way to Fonte Laurentina if they didn't already live there? Certainly not those who make proverbial changes of itinerary to try this or that Michelin star, perhaps opened three months before the guide's release.

Sottocasa Pizzeria Cucina e Tata: format, location, menu

Sottocasa has a rather unique format: for children over three years old, it offers a dedicated room with play activities led by a childcare provider—a nanny, as the restaurant's name suggests. It's not a standard playground where children can play unsupervised (sometimes with potentially dangerous structures), nor is it simply a simple entertainment program. The Sottocasa owners wanted to create a high-quality space for their guests with children, staffed by professionals in the field. This is certainly a cost, but it's a unique plus. It's not the usual children's menu, for those with small children who want to eat pizza. And, at the same time, it's a nice relief for the most child-free types, those who throw tantrums when they see someone under 15 at a restaurant even before the child in question throws a tantrum.

Aside from this truly noteworthy peculiarity, we already feel a thrill of pleasure upon entering. There they are, two of them: the access ramps for people with mobility issues. We enter annoyed, certain that the entrance is unsuitable, and yet. We rush to the bathroom like Furies, ready to see our hopes dashed: yet! In a final defiance of fate, we've acquired a dog, solely to further annoy... I mean, to further challenge the restaurateur: well, they even accept a fearsome poodle. I wonder if that applies to food and wine critics too!

Since we're incognito, we'll never know if even this treacherous category is included. It could be: there's plenty of space, and the floor-to-ceiling windows let in plenty of light, even at dusk. So, even if a food critic were to enter, they'd be incinerated by the proverbial ray of light, like all vampires.

The spaces are large and well-organized. The location allows for this with infinite ease compared to the restaurants in the center, and at the same time, there are almost endless parking options, although to be fair, we should point out that we came on a somewhat sleepy Tuesday, partly because everyone was jammed on the GRA ring road.

The menu is gargantuan: this always irritates.

Appetizers with fried foods and traditional Roman dishes, bruschetta, first courses, second courses, pizzas, and even sandwiches. It's a bit disappointing; the experience (sic!!!!!) could be ruined! We're even more disappointed by the lack of craft beers. We dive into the small, well-balanced wine list. Local wines and a few other selections. Prices are balanced, with a slight upward trend. Sandwiches are all around €13/14; second courses fluctuate depending on the meats offered, reaching €24 for a Danish fillet with lard (about 200g). Pizzas range from €7 for a Margherita to €10 for the more sophisticated ones, among which, alas, we spot a wild Pistacchiosa. The kids' menu offers a choice of both first and second courses, and for €17 you even get fries—come on!

Fried foods, pizzas, sandwiches and desserts from Sottocasa

Without too much emphasis on the menu or triumphal announcements, the ingredients used in both the toppings and the sandwiches are of good quality. The fried foods are excellent. The boiled meatballs with caramelized onion are delicious: pleasantly breaded, and the fried food isn't greasy. The paccheri are well-made, but the carbonara filling is only half-hearted, but we must confess to a stubborn dislike for Rome's signature dish. The panuozzo filled with Roman-style tripe is interesting. The mint flavor could be a little stronger, but it's pleasant, and the panuozzo isn't bad either. It's just a little softer than they'd make it in Gragnano. The pizza chef, who is also Neapolitan, has a somewhat 'circle-and-go' approach to pizza: Neapolitan, yes, but with a touch of both Caserta and Rome. Saying this sounds like a description of Cerberus, but it actually achieves its purpose. The dough is made with a blend of flours, the leavening is slow, and the cooking is excellent. The crispiness is there and doesn't bother you, just as the crusts are pronounced, not overbearing. The Margherita, with plenty of basil, is delightful, as is the pizza of the day with quality cured meats. The sandwich with homemade buns is also noteworthy. We rush toward the bill with some difficulty, stumbling, or perhaps rolling, over two desserts: an excellent, challengingly sized brownie and a perfectly adequate panna cotta with coconut and mango.

The bill was balanced and more than in line with our experience. €109, for three of us, and we're risking a hyperglycemic spike. We have to go now; the nanny is having the kids draw on the large chalkboard wall. Didn't we ever tell you we're just like the chalkboards?

Opinion

Sottocasa Pizzeria Cucina Tata is a restaurant in Fonte Laurentina, just off the GRA ring road. It's a place on the outskirts of the city, yet more contemporary and functional than many downtown establishments. They focus on Neapolitan-style pizza (with some Roman influences on certain ingredients and a crispier surface), good sandwiches, and a selection of ingredients. The wine cellar could be expanded, both for beer and wine. Excellent service is provided in the spacious and airy dining rooms, thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows. The undeniable plus, however, remains the availability of childcare providers, which Sottocasa Pizzeria Cucina e Tata offers free of charge to its guests. This special attention truly makes a difference. The facilities for those with mobility impairments are impeccable, from the entrance to the restrooms.

PRO

• perfect accessibility features
• innovative and significant nanny service with childcare workers, a real plus
• good (almost) Neapolitan pizza with attention to leavening and raw materials used
• gastronomic proposal suitable for all needs
• good desserts with considerable portions
• reasonable and balanced prices
• dog friendly
• good fried foods
• parking available in the immediate vicinity