Hungary through the eyes of chefs: a weekend on the southern shore of Lake Balaton with Gabi Szikra's recommendations

If it were up to her to recommend just one place in Fonyód, Gabi Szikra would point everyone in the direction of the Szaplonczay Promenade without a second thought. The route along the high shore offers one of the most beautiful panoramas of Lake Balaton: the other shore, with the volcanic buttes of Badacsony and the view of the western basin, is almost like a postcard. “It’s a natural program for locals, but surprisingly many holidaymakers still skip it. Yet an evening walk, especially at sunset, is worth a detour to Lake Balaton in itself.”

The boat trip that connects two worlds of Lake Balaton

From Fonyód, the next stop is almost obvious: Badacsony. The boat trip between the two banks is both a means of transportation and an experience. According to Gabi, many of her guests choose the program where they stay in Fonyód and then spend a full day visiting wineries on the other side. In Badacsony, she believes that you don't necessarily have to look for just one place, but rather let the mountain guide you. The Rózsakő, the roads lined with vineyards, the panorama and the wine cellars together give the character of the region. She highlights one mandatory program element: the tasting of kéknyelű. "The iconic grape variety of the Badacsony wine region is found almost nowhere else in this form, so every visit should start with this."

Regarding Badacsony, the chef mentions La Téné as an excellent breakfast spot, as well as Ádám Mede's restaurant, which has received a lot of positive feedback in the area.

He recommends Németh Pince to those who like to linger over a glass. “If you want to drink wines that make you think a little and where they do mini wine tastings, that’s Németh Pince.” He particularly likes the winery because it’s not on the busiest route in Badacsony, so it offers a somewhat calmer, more immersive experience.

Lake Balaton, which is worth exploring on two wheels

One of the biggest advantages of the southern shore is the well-developed network of bicycle paths. For years, Gabi has been watching more and more people explore Lake Balaton by bike, which is seen as both a sporting achievement and a real journey for those looking for an active vacation. “Many people complete the circuit in several days, stopping in a village along the way, exploring the smaller beaches, markets and restaurants.” This slower pace, he says, shows much more of Lake Balaton than a car trip.

A market where locals shop

If you want to take something local back home from the area, the Fonyód market is an unmissable destination, according to Gabi Szikra. “On Wednesdays and Saturdays, local producers, cheesemakers, bakers, smoked meat makers and traditional producers fill the stands. Long lines snake in front of the fresh bread, and the counters are lined with homemade cheeses, dairy products, salamis, seasonal fruits and cakes.” The special thing about the market is that, in addition to the gastronomic specialties, it is easy to feel like you are taking part in an outdoor treasure hunt as you wander among antique sellers, old household items, books, porcelain and strange treasures.

In addition to the market, ice cream is also a must. “The name of Florida Fagyizó, located in neighboring Balatonmáriafürdő, is almost unavoidable among the ice cream recommendations in the area, so it is no coincidence that many guests visit it during the summer months.”

One of the strangest stories of the South Coast

One of the most interesting sights in Fonyód is the Kripta villa, which is associated with a tragic love story. The Valkó lookout tower above the villa and the panorama of the surrounding area are worth a trip in themselves, but the atmosphere of the place is made truly special by the historical background. According to Gabi, this is typically a place that rarely makes it onto the top lists of Balaton, yet it can provide a much more lasting experience than a crowded beach or a well-known attraction.

Culinary detours

If you are on the southern shore of Lake Balaton, there is one restaurant that you cannot miss: Kistücsök in Balatonszemes. As one of the best-known restaurants on the southern shore, it has long been an important player in the gastronomy of Lake Balaton, and according to the chef, those who are looking for a more serious culinary experience in addition to beach and hiking will also find what they are looking for here.

However, it is not necessarily only the restaurants that represent the gastronomic experience in the area. In Balatonlelle and the Kishegy area, an increasing number of events await visitors where local winemakers and caterers jointly present the flavors of the region. The programs of Kishegyi Kortyok és Falatok are good examples of how wine, landscape and local gastronomy meet.

Gabi Szikra's recommendations also show that a landscape can be explored not only through the best restaurants. A weekend at Lake Balaton is shaped by the morning bustle of a market, a glass of kéknyelű on the hillside, a composás to the other side or a sunset from the high shore. Together, these create the Balaton that locals return to again and again.