“Trends may come and go, but philosophy remains the same”

That's right, in the confectionery industry you always have to think a little bit ahead. By the time guests encounter a festive dessert or bonbon collection, months of work have already gone into it. For example, in early July we are already working on the concept of the end-of-year festive selection: we have decided what flavors we will work with, how the collection will be structured, what story we want to tell through the desserts, and what visual elements will accompany this experience.

The holiday season is always an opportunity for us to create something unique. We often design shapes that are uniquely related to a particular season or event. The ideas are first conceived as sketches, then special cutters and shapes are made for them, which are then realized by our partner specializing in 3D printing. It is a long journey from creative idea to finished dessert, but it is this process that I find particularly exciting: when an idea gradually becomes a tangible and then savourable experience.

In everyday life, in addition to long-term planning, there is always room for creative ideas related to current events. For example, on the occasion of the FIFA World Cup final, we surprised our hotel guests with a special treat: delicious bonbons evoking the atmosphere of the final made the evening even more memorable. With the end of the World Cup, our attention was turned to Formula 1, as the period of the Hungarian Grand Prix is ​​also of special importance for the hotel.

Please tell me about the current summer offerings! You always use seasonal fruits to their full potential, but the increasing temperatures caused by climate change certainly don't make this process easy.

A few years ago, we began to really notice that climate change is shaping the everyday life of the confectionery industry: fruits often ripen earlier, but are available in their best quality for a much shorter period of time. This means that while we are planning a cherry or apricot dessert, we also have to see what the next fruit will be that will take its place in the range.

Summer is therefore a constantly moving, exciting time for us. As soon as a fruit appears in the growing areas, we immediately start to monitor its quality. We taste, test and measure in close cooperation with our supplier partners to get an accurate picture of the character of the fruit of the given season. We often examine the first samples when the fruit is only appearing in other European growing areas, so by the time it becomes available to Hungarian producers, we already have a precise idea of ​​how we want to use it.

When it comes to ingredients, we don't rely solely on our senses. What is pleasantly sweet to one person may be too intense or even subdued to another. That's why we also check the sugar content and ripeness of the fruits with a Brix meter so that we can always provide the same taste experience in our desserts. The goal is for guests to encounter the most beautiful face of the fruit every time.

The current summer offerings reflect this approach. The raspberry tarte is made with pistachio almond cream and passion fruit crémeux, the apricot tarte features almonds and tarragon to enhance the fruit's character, while the fraisier evokes the classic harmony of strawberries, vanilla mousse and sponge cake. Each dessert is built around the fruit, not the other way around.

At Kollázs, we have always believed that fruits are worth showcasing in their own season. This philosophy is reflected not only in the pastry shop, but also in the restaurant's lunch and dinner offerings, which also follow the rhythm of the seasons. We carry the same idea into the hotel guest experience: the fruit bowls prepared in the rooms always feature the freshest, most beautiful fruits of the current season, so that guests can experience the flavors of the season upon arrival.

How are your fruit tarts made? Can you tell us some behind-the-scenes secrets?

Our fruit tarts are perhaps special because each piece is made with the same care as if we were making just one dessert. The process starts with the smallest details: the doughs that form the basis of the tarts are hand-made in mini tarte circles, individually shaped and baked, so that the precision that accompanies the entire dessert is evident from the first step.

When we build a dessert around a fruit, we focus not only on what goes with it, but also on how we can highlight its flavor as beautifully as possible. In the case of the apricot tart, for example, the almond cream fills this role. The natural fat content of the almond helps the fruit and the aromas paired with it to develop even more intensely. These proportions are extremely important to us: we want to provide a rich taste experience while maintaining the dessert's light, elegant character.

We use apricots in several forms in the same cake. Some are baked with the almond cream, others appear as a gel, and they are also served fresh in the dessert. For this, we use a modern confectionery technique, compression, thanks to which the fruit preserves its natural structure, freshness and intensity, while enriching it with new layers of flavor (the flavoring liquid introduced into the cell structure of the fruit using vacuum technology results in a firmer texture and deeper flavors - ed.). The vanilla is subtly integrated into the fruit, so that in the finished dessert, apricots, almonds and spices appear as one harmonious story.

Are there any recent tweaks to the permanent offerings (like Gresham or St. Honoré) that you would like to share with readers?

There are desserts that our guests return to again and again, and St. Honoré is one of them. The previous version, served in a basket, was memorable for its different shades of vanilla and the harmony of caramel. However, for the summer, we felt it was time to give this favorite a new look. We kept the flavors that our guests loved, while rethinking the shape and the dough. Thus, the new, éclair-shaped St. Honoré was born, which is both familiar and surprisingly new.

Gresham Chocolate Cake is also taking on a new role during the holiday season. Made by a Hungarian manufacturer and based on our own chocolate, the dessert takes on a spherical shape that evokes an elegant Christmas tree ornament. Its appearance also brings to life the iconic details of Gresham Palace, while the color scheme emphasizes the festive elegance.

How much insight into the Collage cake collection do guests who come to Gresham Palace for Afternoon Tea get?

Afternoon Tea is perhaps the best opportunity for guests to gain insight into the world that defines Kollázs desserts in a single afternoon. While sipping their tea in the elegant space of Múzsa, accompanied by live music, they encounter the same flavors, ingredients and thoughts that characterize our entire confectionery.

The cakes offered there are actually miniature versions of the desserts of the Collage. The Gresham chocolate cake, the fruit tarts or the Paris-Brest are made with the same recipe and the same meticulous attention as their full-sized counterparts, only in a smaller form. We transform them into bites that can restore the full character of the original dessert in just one or two bites.

As the seasons change, so do the Afternoon Tea cakes. The four-item selection features two desserts that are permanent and two that follow the flavors of the current season. This way, even those guests who return regularly can always find something new to experience.

In addition to desserts, of course, the classic Afternoon Tea traditions are also present: savory snacks, freshly made scones, and homemade jams and compotes complete the experience. All of this together creates an afternoon that evokes both the tradition of Afternoon Tea and Kollázs' own confectionery philosophy.

The experience is further enhanced by the fact that the Afternoon Tea is served on Herend Royal Garden porcelain. Herend porcelain has represented the noblest values ​​of Hungarian artisanal heritage for nearly two centuries, creating a special atmosphere for the occasion with its fine details and timeless elegance.

We pay special attention to ensuring that each of our guests finds the ideal dessert for them, which is why our offer also includes creations tailored to lactose, gluten and added sugar-free needs. Our goal is that these alternative desserts do not mean compromise: they offer the same refined taste, high quality and aesthetic experience as the traditional versions.

If we zoom out a little from the life of the house and the current situation of Hungarian confectionery overall, I ask you: what do you see this year, where is the industry moving?

It is gratifying to see the good efforts being made in terms of taste, texture and customer service. It is a good feeling to experience that there are more and more of us in Hungary who are working to be at our best every day as pastry chefs. Our customers will appreciate this sooner or later.

I have learned a lot from the profession during my career, so I consider it important to pass on knowledge. It always makes me happy when a technique, a new approach or even a small professional detail inspires a colleague. Whether it is the philosophy of Kollázs desserts or the traditions of French pastry, sharing knowledge is as creative and value-creating a process for me as creating a new dessert.

Guests today not only enjoy the flavors, but also are curious about the stories behind them. They are choosing more and more consciously, paying attention to the ingredients, the preparation techniques and what ends up on their plate. The demand for quality therefore comes not only from the profession, but also from guests, who come to us with increasingly sophisticated tastes and greater knowledge.

What do you think about the different hybrid formats, the legacy of the cronut? How big a trend do you see in Hungary today?

Confectionery has always been about balance. On the one hand, there is the curiosity and joy of experimentation, and on the other hand, there is the responsibility to preserve and pass on the foundations on which the profession is built. We believe that true value does not necessarily come from momentary novelties, but from reinterpreting classics with a new perspective, adapting them to the expectations of today.

We follow trends, of course, but they do not define our work. Rather, we strive to shape our guests' tastes with our own ideas and professional convictions, and to create desserts that go beyond current trends.

Our philosophy has therefore remained unchanged for many years: quality, taste and guest experience come first. Part of this is that we pay attention to different needs and the increasingly conscious consumer attitude: whether it is serving our vegan guests, sugar content, ingredients or allergens. Guests are now curious about what is on their plate, while still not wanting to give up enjoyment, exciting textures and visual experience. For us, this is precisely the inspiring task: to create desserts that are both conscious and unforgettable.