02 October 2026 · Vol. XXXIV · № 12.327 Get the letterSearchSaved
THE APEX GASTRONOMY CHRONICLE
Food The Exchange & The CounterThe Wire The IndexThe Bureau
LATEST
The Wire
Shan Rachel Jiang: “Great food doesn’t require luxury ingredients”

Shan Rachel Jiang: “Great food doesn’t require luxury ingredients”

I believe that French cuisine is defined by strong and solid professional foundations and a remarkable culture of knowledge transfer. Techniques, knowledge and craftsmanship have been carefully passed down from generation to generation, creating a rich heritage that continues to shape the profession today.

Even in the hands of young chefs, a spoonful of carefully prepared jus de viande (meat gravy) – a flavorful meat-based sauce perfected over time, patience and expertise – remains a cornerstone of great taste. Craftsmanship and respect for the fundamentals of culinary art remain a defining element of French cuisine.

However, over the past decade, French gastronomy has become increasingly open and diverse. Chefs are increasingly interested in exploring the ingredients, techniques and culinary traditions of different countries and cultures. These influences are no longer treated as mere external inspiration, but have become an integral part of the ongoing evolution of contemporary French cuisine.

As a professional who grew up in China and then built a career in France, I was particularly touched by the curiosity with which many young French chefs turned to Chinese cuisine. I experienced in them a sincere desire to explore its ingredients, techniques and philosophy with respect and openness.

For me, contemporary French cuisine remains deeply rooted in its traditions, but has also become more diverse, open and innovative. Cuisine is a living language: it is constantly in motion, evolving and enriched by interactions. Ultimately, its future will be shaped by the vision and openness of the chefs who practice this profession.

For me, cooking has always been about connecting people through food. No matter how much fine dining evolves, I believe that food should never exist solely to impress. It should be honest, it should evoke emotion, and it should make people feel welcome and cared for. I value seasonality, restraint, and allowing each ingredient to express its own character rather than overshadowing it with technique.

My cooking is deeply influenced by Chinese culinary culture, where a meal is not just about flavor, but also about sharing, conversation, and togetherness. Whether I’m serving a simple bowl of congee or a multi-course tasting menu, my goal remains the same: to create a moment where people can slow down, connect, and leave feeling full—both physically and emotionally.

If you could choose just one ingredient that best characterizes your kitchen today, what would it be and why?

If I had to choose one ingredient, it would be flour. My work has always been centered around dumplings, so flour is the ingredient I know the most intimately. Making great dumplings starts with the dough. Even small adjustments to the type of flour, hydration, kneading, and resting time can completely change the final texture. Flour is therefore an ingredient that requires both precision and intuition.

I also love flour because it is incredibly versatile. We can make dumplings, pasta, bao, bread, and various pastries from the same ingredient. It connects many culinary traditions while allowing each culture to express its own identity.

For me, flour represents craftsmanship. It reminds me that great food doesn't require luxury ingredients, but rather a deep understanding of simple ingredients and the care they take.

These days, I am most inspired by the people behind the ingredients. Whenever I can, I try to build relationships with the people who grow the food, make the wine, or produce the ingredients I work with. The more I get to know their work, the more I understand the care, time, and expertise that goes into each product.

I am constantly learning from farmers, producers, artisans, and winemakers. They inspire me to remain curious, ask questions, and approach each ingredient with respect and humility.

I believe that the flavor of a tomato begins the moment it is planted. The soil, the climate, the care of the farmer, and the passage of time all become part of its flavor. As chefs, we do not create that flavor, it is our privilege and responsibility to honor, explore, and share its story.

Having grown up in China and building your career in France, you have a unique perspective on both culinary cultures. How do these two worlds meet in your cooking today?

My Chinese roots have provided me with the foundation for my career. I learned that food is all about sharing, expertise and respect for tradition. Working in France has taught me something equally important: to look beyond the kitchen. I have learned to build relationships with farmers, producers and winemakers, as knowing the origin of ingredients is just as important as how they are prepared.

These two worlds are now naturally intertwined in my cooking. My Chinese background defines my relationship with food, and my experiences in France define how I treat ingredients.

Instead of a classic restaurant career path, you built your career as a resident chef and through collaborative projects across France. What has this way of working taught you about creativity and yourself?

As a resident chef, each opportunity presents a new environment, a new team, and a new way of working. I have to adapt quickly while also focusing on my own vision. This challenge is both stressful and exciting, but it also makes me more creative. It’s incredibly rewarding to see an idea turn into a finished dish.

This process also taught me that collaboration is more important than anything else. While staying true to my own direction, I learned to be flexible and respect local culture, traditions, tastes, and working methods. Every place has something to teach me. Above all, this journey has made me a better observer and a better listener. These qualities are just as important as professional knowledge if we want to continuously improve as a chef.

You recently opened your own project location called SOLS. What kind of place did you envision, and what do you hope people will experience when they walk through the doors?

SOLS Paris is a space that combines the culture of food and the experience of tea, reflecting my own culture, experiences and vision of beauty. It focuses on handmade ceramics from Jingdezhen, the historical capital of porcelain, where generations of artisans have preserved techniques that are becoming increasingly rare. Inspired by ancient Chinese ceramic forms, the objects are characterized by balanced proportions, refined craftsmanship and quiet restraint, allowing form and function to speak for themselves.

But SOLS is about more than ceramics: it’s a boutique where people can slow down, have tea together, share stories, discover and buy our handcrafted ceramic tableware and teas, while making genuine connections. I don’t see culture as something that needs to be taught, I believe it all starts with sharing. Through the simplicity of tea, ceramics and time spent together, we gradually get to know and understand each other. (The shop is located in the 6th arrondissement of Paris, at 13 rue de Tournon – ed.)

For me, preserving traditions does not mean conserving the past in an unchanged form. Rather, it focuses on letting it live on through everyday experiences and valuable human relationships.

More The Wire