02 October 2026 · Vol. XXXIV · № 12.327 Get the letterSearchSaved
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Hugo Fregoni's Italian-Japanese gnocchi recipe (Ivresse)

Hugo Fregoni's Italian-Japanese gnocchi recipe (Ivresse)

Quick and easy – the perfect pasta recipe to whip up without delay to make the rest of the week more bearable. This week, discover Hugo Fregoni's Italian-Japanese gnocchi, the purveyor of natural wines at the Marseilles wine bar Ivresse.

“I chose this recipe because it is extremely simple and very good. Not really conventional, I admit, but it is also an opportunity for me to highlight the people we work with: the pangrattato is made with the magnificent bread from Bar à Pain, the shiitake mushrooms are produced by Mycotopia, which supplies us with exceptional mushrooms every week, the gnocchi are made daily by hand by Nénette… and the butter and tarragon come from the local farmers' market across from Ivresse, which has supported us from the beginning.”

Schedule

Start by making the pangrattato: cut the bread into very small pieces (about one centimeter) and sauté it in a pan with olive oil until it is golden brown and crispy.

Cut the shiitake mushrooms into pieces slightly larger than the gnocchi. Sauté them in a little olive oil and finish cooking with a generous knob of butter until they are soft and infused with juices. Set aside.

Heat salted water in a saucepan. In another saucepan, melt a generous knob of butter and the tarragon leaves, cut in half or into thirds depending on their size. Melt over very low heat.

Drop the gnocchi into boiling water and add the shiitake mushrooms to the tarragon butter. Once the gnocchi rise to the surface, pour them into the butter, add 5 tablespoons of the cooking water and perform the mantecatura gesture – or stir vigorously with a large spoon.

Gently arrange the gnocchi on a plate, and if necessary, add a final spoonful of cooking water to the empty pot to loosen any remaining sauce. Add the pangrattato, and it's ready!

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