Genesis, the series about elBulli that Ferran Adrià has watched 40 times

No one was missing from this first preview screening at the San Sebastián Film Festival's Culinary Cinema. The cream of Catalan cuisine was there. Many had worked in the kitchen of El Bulli, so the story resonates deeply with them. Some even have characters in the series.

As luck would have it, we sat next to someone from the Michelin Guide who also didn't want to miss the premiere. Perfect for reminding them that they always end up playing the villains. And indeed, the first episode covers Adrià's arrival at El Bulli and the loss of its second star. There's little to spoil, because the story has been told many times.

The series director himself, David Pujol, made a lengthy documentary about El Bulli, so no one is better suited to adapt this story into fiction. He also knows how difficult it is to balance historical and culinary accuracy with a result that appeals to a general audience, who, it's important to remember, generally have only a passing interest in what happens within our gastronomic bubble.

But it's true that Ferran Adrià has transcended this small universe to become a role model. A character, too. So let's start by saying what many will be repeating these days. And rightly so, because the role played by actor Miquel Fernández is magnificent. His performance alone could be a good reason to start watching the series. "I've watched it 40 times at home, and the first time my wife was nearby and thought it was me talking," Ferran recalled amidst the audience's laughter.

We suspect that the "40 times" thing wasn't just a figure of speech, by the way. Their job has been to verify that everything said and cooked was true. Those who have already seen the entire series tell us that it doesn't gloss over the less appealing aspects of this story. This is important to avoid turning it into a serialized love letter to the epic nature of cooking and the genius of chefs.

We confess we approached Gènesi with curiosity, but also with apprehension that it would be a kind of discount version of The Bear. An audiovisual attempt that falls short. Yet another hagiography, this time for the greater glory of the chef. But these prejudices don't last long. Fernández's performance is complemented by excellent cinematography, sound, set design, and a plot that, at least in the first episode, flows at a good pace. There are certain soap opera tropes and a subplot that hints at melodrama, but overall, the product is more than worthwhile. It makes you want to watch the next episode, and that's the best thing you can say about a series that has just begun.

“Put it next to The Bear or Chefs Table, compare them,” Ferran Adrià encouraged in the subsequent debate before arguing that this series is the best in the world in its category. And, by the way, he reminded everyone that some of the recipes featured on The Bear were created at El Bulli. Take that, Jeremy Allen White.

The potato chip omelet, Santi Santamaria already shaping up to be a kind of endearing villain, and the character of Juli Soler, give shape to this first installment of the six that make up the series. Or its first season, we'll see. Be careful with that, because The Bear also started very well, but it got bogged down as the seasons progressed.

While Ivan Massagué's performance as Juli Soler is undeniably powerful, those who knew him personally say that his spirit hasn't been captured. Perhaps they're asking for the impossible. In any case, Ferran noted that the Soler and Santamaria families have given the script their approval. The confrontation with Santi Santamaria, of course, promises to be one of the most interesting episodes.

"Illusion, passion, and obsession," Juli told a newly arrived and somewhat bewildered Ferran. A kind of battle cry that will surely be repeated often throughout the series, although we confess that what we liked most about the start was Adrià asking about the salary. Work, salary, and working conditions are aspects that took this gastronomic revolution several years to include on its list of priorities.

El Bulli was a veritable goldmine of characters, the director pointed out. Pujol recalls thinking about it while filming the documentary, so making the series has been almost a gift. “Maybe I deserved it,” he joked. But Ferran doesn't want us to dwell on the anecdote. “The joke, the series is very good. But this is a national issue,” he instructed the audience and political leaders present while presenting data on the economic impact of the food sector and the potential global audience of Netflix that this series could reach.

It's one possible interpretation of the series. And also of that somewhat grandiose-sounding name: the genesis, the eating of everything. But is it the genesis of the story we've been talking about for decades, or of haute cuisine as we know it now? "El Bulli is just one part; all of this wouldn't have been possible without the great family of the country's cuisine," Adrià clarified, pointing to some Catalan chefs.

We're not sure that most viewers who sit down to watch the series are prepared to analyze the plot in such a profound way, much less see it as a tool for national promotion. The good news is that it also works without all that, simply as a good series about cooking. The best kitchen in the world, perhaps. And one that has given us some great characters.