Fancy Nachos Are the Move at D.C.’s New All-Day Cafe
Sook, aka Compass Rose 2.0, is a welcome win for Shaw. Open since November, the all-day replacement to Rose Private’s global plates spot is gaining traction for its smash burger, unique natural wine list, and fancied-up bar snacks.
What to order
- A savory “charcuterie chips” starter ($16) is a smorgasbord of prosciutto, cornichons, Peppadew peppers, and Castelvetrano olives, all finished with a heavy blanket of Parm. Albeit random, it works.
- Compass Rose’s famed khachapuri makes a cameo at Sook. The boat-shaped Georgian delicacy overflowing with cheese, local butter, zaa’tar, and eggs is stirred tableside, so get your camera ready ($20).
- Try the Sook burger ($15), simply served with pickles, ketchup, and mustard between an airy brioche bun.
- Don’t sleep on the chicken shish taouk wrap, a compilation of spicy cilantro, iceberg lettuce, and garlicky herb dressing ($17).
- By-the-glass options ($15-$20) spotlight small-scale vineyards around the world (see: a Chardonnay from Oregon’s Maloof Wines to a sparkling lambrusco from a fourth-generation winery in Northern Italy).
The vibe
While the two-story bones are the same, a makeover of moody lighting, velvety lounge seating, and cosmopolitan bathrooms (as in, a selfie backdrop of big-city names spelled out in caps lock), swing more mature than before. The gilded look continues with freshly painted peacock feathers framing the stairwell, juxtaposed with black wallpaper popping with florals.
Insider tip
Check out the for-sale goods stocked on rustic wooden shelves upon entry. That includes the cookbook from wood-fired Maydan (Previte’s first-born restaurant up 14th Street and genesis of a hit LA marketplace), Sook’s new spice line, and cute baby swag splashed with retro Compass Rose logos.
