03 October 2026 · Vol. XXXIV · № 12.328 Get the letterSearchSaved
THE APEX GASTRONOMY CHRONICLE
Food The Exchange & The CounterThe Wire The IndexThe Bureau
LATEST
The Exchange & The Counter
Find Pandan Old-Fashioneds and Filipino-Style Hot Chicken at This Dupont Circle Gem

Find Pandan Old-Fashioneds and Filipino-Style Hot Chicken at This Dupont Circle Gem

Chef Paolo Dungca’s Kayu has become more breezy and casual in its new digs near Dupont Circle, after relocating from its original two-story home on H Street last summer.

What to order

  • The longtime favorite ube bun with chorizo has been switched out for crispy fried chicken, flavored with duck fat chile oil, and pickles stuffed in a coconut-pandan bao bun. It’s still a must-order appetizer, marrying spice, acid, and bouncy sweet bread for a great opening bite.
  • Dungca combines hearty Southern fare with rich Filipino flavors in the pork chop, which has a crispy seared fat cap and is cut into juicy bites that pair well with black-eyed peas and greens.
  • The incredibly rich crab fat rice topped with tender Hokkaido scallops is another great entree. There are truly no misses on the short list of mains, a rarity these days when small plates and shared appetizers tend to stand out more on restaurant menus.

The vibe

You’ll be intoxicated by the smell of cooked down vinegar and soy sauce as soon as you walk through the door. Soft music plays (I heard at least two Elton John songs at a recent meal) but you can still hear the low din of conversations around you, the perfect environment for an intimate dinner.

Insider tip

Kayu chef Julie Cortes has also been making waves in the local food scene lately, with her savory bao buns and black truffle cream-filled ensaymada catching the eye of StarChefs and winning her a 2026 Rising Stars Award. She’s also been hosting popular sourdough starter workshops in collaboration with Cookbook Courtyard.

Key facts
  • Who: Filipino · Chef Paolo Dungca’s Kayu · Dupont Circle · Adult Jolly Meal
  • Money: $25 · $11 · $65 · $125

More The Exchange & The Counter