25 years of Rutz
The "Rutz" is 25 years old. What does this anniversary mean to you personally? For me, it feels truly wonderful – it's a bit like a life's work. I had already written parts of the concept with the founder, Lars Rutz, before we even started. 25 years of "Rutz" – that's the realization of a dream.
What has changed most during this time? We've constantly become stronger. In every respect. When I started, there were four of us in the kitchen. We had an idea and wanted to change things. It wasn't just about good food. It was about hospitality, about ideas, about working in a contemporary way, about reviving forgotten traditions and becoming more regional – which we weren't back then in haute cuisine. Many of the techniques we use today didn't even exist yet. We had to develop them all ourselves.
Where do you stand in your development? Right in the middle – I don't feel like we're finished. From the outside, it might look like we've reached our peak, but for me, it feels like the beginning. The drive is just as strong as ever.
One example from the anniversary menu is the trout. Why this dish? The trout may seem simple at first glance, but it's a prime example. It represents our approach to sourcing products. We receive the fish in the morning from a small fish farm in Schleswig-Holstein. When it's served in the evening, it's less than twelve hours old. It doesn't get much fresher than that.
What happens in the kitchen? Shortly before serving, we coat the fillet with a trout garum. We prepared this ourselves ten months earlier. We add trout roe, dried roe, a garum emulsion, and baked skin. We want to enhance the natural flavor, not mask it.
"This is the realization of a dream."
What complements the trout? Kohlrabi adds freshness and texture. Some of it is lacto-fermented for twelve hours, another part is marinated in buttermilk. Lightly gelled kohlrabi is placed on top. A whey-based charcoal emulsion accompanies it, providing roasted aromas without actually frying the fish. In the end, the dish has 15 components, but the trout is the dominant flavor.
What does this dish reveal about your cuisine? That we take simple, regional products and explore them until they reach their maximum depth. We use fermentation, garums, and vinegars to clarify flavors—not to make them heavier.
The Schmidt family has run "Rutz" from the very beginning. Is that relevant to you? Absolutely. In a smaller company, you can implement things differently. The larger the company, the less individualized your approach can be. If you try to please everyone, the result is mediocrity – and I never wanted to achieve mediocrity. It helps that communication channels are short; decisions are made quickly. In the kitchen, the final decision rests solely with me.
What do you wish for in the future? That I retain the joy of doing my job with passion, and that we continue to find people who are just as crazy as we are. Right now, we have more ideas than we can implement.
Concept: Hats off! The 25-year evolution of an ambitious wine bar into a world-class gourmet restaurant is impressive. Menus are available in 12 or 13 "inspirations" (omnivore or vegetarian). A limited "Berlin Size Menu" offers 6 courses. Cuisine: The creations of Executive Chef Marco Müller and his team are minimalist, nature-inspired, and precisely composed. Local produce—whether root vegetables, game, or herbs—is focused on its essence and reinterpreted. Aromas such as spruce, elderberry, or sumac meet fermented, aged, and purist elements, supported by fine acidity and subtle umami depth. Textures are deliberately contrasted, and sweetness and acidity are finely balanced. A modern style that seeks clarity rather than opulence, reflecting craftsmanship and full of excitement. Wine: The wine list (700 selections) clearly reflects the owners' background as wine merchants. Sommelier Sebastian Höpfner's pairings create harmonious connections. Concept: The stylish interior, spread over two floors, features walnut wood, leather, and natural stone. Host Falco Mühlichen and his team strike a perfect balance between relaxed atmosphere and precision. Their concept: a harmonious overall experience where creative natural cuisine, distinctive wines, and impeccable service come together in perfect accord.
