Skamata, a breath of Mediterranean air in Biscay
Skamata, a breath of Mediterranean air from rural Menorca, but with an urban touch; modern, but with an eye on tradition; informal and casual, but without neglecting the details; exotic, but also very rooted in Basque identity.
It might seem like a strange, contrasting sight in a place steeped in history like Balmaseda (Vizcaya), but the truth is that this town in the Enkarterri region is already attracting a handful of interesting hospitality businesses, run by young professionals who have moved away from the traditional, regionalist approach. Of all of them, the one headed by Jon Mikel Setien is probably the pioneer.
Although the space it now occupies next to the Old Bridge is practically brand new, Skamata has been around for 15 years in Balmaseda, initially as a cafeteria and informal burger and sandwich shop, in a much smaller premises.
During this time, Setién has managed to make the local public aware of how to differentiate a specialty coffee, appreciate the artisan chocolate that he makes together with his aunt Raquel González under the Kaitxo brand, or wash down the afternoon round with craft beers.
Today it may seem the most normal thing in the world, but fifteen years ago he surely had to use a lot of persuasion to explain his proposal.
Old bakery
A few months ago, they moved to a much larger and more versatile space—albeit a bit noisy—where they've been able to take a significant leap forward and expand their menu to cover all the bases. Transforming the old Múgica bakery workshop into the modern establishment it is today "has been a massive undertaking, very fast, but it's given us a lot of headaches," Mikel admits. In return, he now has the infrastructure he dreamed of to give free rein to his creative vision.
At Skamata you can still go to devour an Eusko Label burger or share some pizzas with friends, but also to enjoy more elaborate proposals, resolved with freshness, originality and skill.
Among these new offerings that seek to break away from the usual without losing sight of the restaurant's laid-back spirit, the carpaccios stand out, both the roast beef with sour cream and pickles and the tuna with wakame and toasted sesame.
Detailed, very colorful and incredibly juicy.
The salads looked incredibly appetizing – we tried the avocado and prawn salad with yuzu vinaigrette – and the pizzas were impeccable, made with a handcrafted dough that was thinner and lighter than the classic Neapolitan one.
For future visits, we'll save the grilled meats and fish, but don't skip the desserts. The Kaitxo chocolate mousse with coffee chantilly cream and Amaretto is worth the trip.
Menorcan lizards
Mikel Setien has spent long periods of his life in Menorca, where he learned the basics of the hospitality industry from his mother. Inspired by the small nocturnal lizards abundant on the island, he named his first solo business Skamata.
He was only 21 years old and 15 years have passed, in which that very original name has become synonymous in Balmaseda with rich, affordable and quality food, with a touch of originality.
A few weeks ago, the Repsol guide rewarded his effort with a Solete award, placing him on its summer ski slopes route.
