The Universe of Santi Taura

Obviously, we have to start with the crown jewel, the Michelin-starred Dins in the capital, which is only open in the evenings, except on Fridays and Saturdays. Its philosophy, in Taura's own words, is to "reconstruct the archipelago's culinary repertoire following the calendar, copying and reinterpreting established recipes without betraying them and ensuring they remain recognizable." You can dine peacefully at a table or, for a more immersive experience, head to the bar where the chef officiates (at 2:15 pm or 9 pm, a fixed schedule), presenting and explaining each dish and interacting with the dozen or so diners around him.

The only option is the Origens menu (€115), which consists of eleven courses and can be complemented with several extras: red lobster (€24), Mallorcan-style stuffed snails (€16), toast with organic sobrasada (€5), and/or Balearic cheeses (€18). It's not essential to order it, but leaving this restaurant without trying a memorable sobrasada would be practically a crime.

Regarding the eleven courses on the menu, they change depending on the season and the availability of the ingredients. Of those we tasted, we can only guarantee future visitors to the restaurant that they will find the fabulous rockfish pie, a seafood version of a popular Easter dish with lamb that is a kind of "Balearic dim sum" and remains unchanged, untouched by the passage of time.

Each dish has a fascinating and complex story behind it (not a story, a word that, thanks to politicians, has lost its meaning), extensively documented by Taura and his team, from the Llibre de Sant Soví to history manuals, which we will not reveal for two reasons: this review would be excessively long and, above all, much of the charm and surprise inherent in each dish would be lost.

Clear and highly recognizable flavors, playful technical games of textures and temperatures, precise cooking, zero artifice, and respect for the essence and original ingredients of the recipes are what define proposals such as bonito salmorregí (a mash that dates back to Roman times, with the addition of tomato at the end of the 19th century), eggplants stuffed with black suckling pig (14th century), the Lenten cod truita (omelette), capon with oysters (a medieval surf and turf), julivertada de peix (18th century, John Dory with parsley and snow peas), panadera de peix y porros (Menorcan stew with eel and leeks) or the Mallorcan beef stew (related to Archduke Louis of Austria).

For dessert, a very summery apricot coca; a boozy ice cream with meringue milk and coffee that's a kind of island tiramisu; and a touch of local gin in an adaptation of the traditional Menorcan Pomada. Before that, to drink, a selection of, of course, Balearic wines (€75), curated by maître d' and sommelier Joan Arboix (a passionate lover of the wines of his homeland… and of sparkling wines, and Burgundies, as can be seen in his cellar), allowing guests to sample native varieties such as Giró Blanc, Prensal Blanc, Mantonegre, Malvasía de Banyalbufar, Acorazado, Escursac, Fogoneo, or Espolón de Gallo.

Two interesting facts about Dins. The ceramic plates included in the service are personally made by Taura, and one of the wines served with the wine pairing menu is signed by Arboix himself.

Without leaving the Hotel El Llorenç, on the rooftop we find Urbá, a relaxed, playful, and even provocative concept that offers a complete counterpoint to Dins. With magnificent views of the bay, here Taura and his head chef José Pujada propose a boundless and uninhibited fusion where world cuisines, primarily Asian, meet Mediterranean ingredients in cosmopolitan, fun, informal, and impressive dishes designed for sharing.

Some examples? Croquettes, both the carbonara (with Joselito pancetta) and especially the "Molonas!" (free-range chicken and red mojo sauce), Mallorcan soup dumplings, Thai-style red prawn carpaccio, tumbet pav javhi-style (or when Indian street food traveled to Mallorca), or Korean hot and sour pork belly. All unpretentious, fun, and delicious.

Located an hour's drive from Palma, in the municipality of Pollensa, is the Hotel El Vicenç, the younger sibling (in age, as it opened later, not in size, as it is larger) of El Llorenç. Its restaurants are U Mayol and U Vicenç.

The first is the most popular, due to its accessibility (it's the only one that allows children) and prices, in the Taura universe. Located on the ground floor at street level and with a pleasant terrace overlooking the sea, it has the spirit of an upscale beach bar: classic starters (croquettes, potato salad, Padrón peppers, tuna tartare), salads, rice dishes and stews, grilled fish and meats and, most interestingly, fried free-range eggs with various accompaniments, such as tumbet, lobster, red prawns in garlic sauce or potatoes and ham.

U Vicenç is located on the rooftop, and its views are simply priceless. Gastronomically, it's an international hotel restaurant with the soul of a Mallorcan bistro. In other words, its aim is to satisfy all kinds of diners (its clientele is mostly from the Goths, Saxons, and Vikings) while still celebrating the island's culinary traditions and local produce.

There are two options: eat à la carte or choose the eight-course tasting menu (€85) which changes regularly and allows you to try things like a mellow oxtail croquette with foie gras and aioli or a (misnamed) gilda of marinated tuna with soy and trampó topping with crunchy touches.

And continue with a tartlet with beef carpaccio, Mahón cheese and a touch of fresh and slightly spicy egg yolk (spices and mustard) or a version of tumbet as a filling for a cannelloni with a pleasant touch of charcoal and a very dominant presence of paprika.

In the seafood section, the squid ravioli with onion and aioli tips, reminiscent of sautéed baby squid, was far superior to the amberjack with roasted pepper sauce, asparagus (in summer, perhaps?), and cauliflower, which was overcooked and quite bland. This misstep was quickly forgotten, however, thanks to what would become the star of the show: the ensaimada filled with escaldón de faraona (a traditional Canarian stew) and served with almond sauce. Definitely worth ordering again and again.

The warm dark chocolate foam with roasted banana and licorice is a bomb, but fortunately, the bitter notes stand up to the sweet ones without hesitation, giving it complexity and balance, like those waves of the Mare Nostrum that, far away, come and go…

PS This summer, the Es Pati restaurant in Montuïri, located in the Es Figueral Nou hotel, has joined the Santi Taura Universe. It's housed in an 18th-century estate in the heart of the island, in the town of Montuïri. We're told (because we haven't been) that the restaurant focuses on updated Balearic cuisine, with dishes like eggplant cannelloni stuffed with meat in a ragù sauce with sobrasada, or suckling pig stuffed in the medieval style with roasted sweet potato. It's on our list.