Hostaria Edmondo in Rome, a review: a must-visit spot
In Rome, driving along the Circonvallazione Clodia, you've likely missed Hostaria Edmondo. Just as it eluded us for years, even though that stretch of road is a key hub in the city and home to long traffic jams every day.
Popular especially for lunch and popular with workers from the nearby television studios on Via Teulada (where RAI is headquartered, and La7 is just steps away) and the sound stages, Edmondo is something of an institution for those in the know. It still bears the name of its historic owner, despite his long-deceased past. After being passed on to his grandchildren, it has been under new management for about fifteen years.
The quality, however, according to many, has remained unchanged despite the changes. This continuity is likely due to the fact that Edmondo, despite the passage of time, continues to be a traditional Roman osteria, without frills and with a clear understanding of Roman culinary tradition. It's not the only trattoria in the area, and perhaps not the best, but it's undoubtedly one of the most reliable for a simple, expertly prepared dish. The cuisine has necessarily evolved over time, adding even less traditional dishes with the seasons, to satisfy changing palates and current trends, but meatballs, oxtail, ossobuco, and classic first courses remain the cornerstones of this small, celebrated establishment.
On a typical Roman September day, with more than pleasant temperatures, we indulged in a semi-traditional appetizer: burrata with anchovies (not exactly traditional, and in fact negligible) and a slightly revisited panzanella, perfect for starting lunch in the mild weather. A good start to the meal, ahead of the first courses. In this case, we opted for a well-made carbonara, perfectly proportioned and capable of fully expressing the dish's character. Not content, we also decided to try the trofie with guanciale and zucchini: a sort of enriched gricia that certainly satisfied us, although not as good as the other first course we tried. As for the second courses, however, we fearlessly delved into the purely local cuisine: meatballs in tomato sauce and oxtail stew, two classics, accompanied by sautéed chicory. The perceived flavors reflect the ingredients and preparation at their best, faithful to a homely, traditional flavor. This might seem obvious to some, but in reality, it's increasingly less of a given these days. Sure, we're talking about two dishes immersed in sauce, sometimes disguised by it, but here the flavors and craftsmanship (primarily of the meatball) were exactly what we expected. There were no surprises either regarding the homemade tiramisu that concluded this mid-September lunch. Little to complain about the price, which overall is accessible to all budgets (the bill includes a first course, a second course, and a dessert). Also worthy of mention is the service, always punctual thanks to courteous and helpful waiters.
Opinion
Hostaria Edmondo's strength is probably the assurance that diners will find what they're looking for: a wealth of tradition and a few (but appropriate) reinterpretations of dishes no longer readily available cooked properly. The wine selection could perhaps use some work, as it's rather limited, but judging by the orders from other diners, the bulk wine is a hit. We can safely say that the essence of the place is precisely that of serving a simple, popular meal that everyone can relate to. There are no flights of fancy, extravagant touches, or attempts to over-modernize dishes that already perfectly represent the house's tradition. A sure bet for Romans and a faithful representation of Roman cuisine for tourists or last-minute diners, often drawn to more glamorous, sometimes even higher-end, establishments that have lost their traditional flavor. A place not to be underestimated.
