Pizzeria Don Ciccio Review: A Bright Spot on the Outskirts of Turin

Behind its modest exterior, the place is small and welcoming: a few seats, light wood, and a warm atmosphere. The mood oscillates between refined (the aforementioned ambiance, the usual emphasis on raw materials and research) and ultra-pop (the bold logo, but also the size of the QR code, for example).

The menu at Don Ciccio Pizzeria

The same oscillation is found on Don Ciccio's menu, between chic aspirations and slightly tacky lapses. The pizzeria only has an oven, not a kitchen or kitchenette, presumably: this is evident from the ingredients on the pizzas and the substantial lack of appetizers, if you exclude the charcuterie and cheese boards (presumably the same ones that go on the pizzas) and four focaccias, or pizzas topped with charcuterie and cheese. A minimalist and bold choice, which deserves to be emphasized, but which practically forces you to go for the pizza right away.

On the other hand, there are many pizzas, perhaps too many. We have already spoken about our idiosyncrasy for long menus, and we repeat it in every review. Even if in this case, if you look closely, there aren't that many pizzas: only 21, counting them. And yet they seem more: why? Perhaps because of the black and white font which makes it difficult to read; perhaps because of the abundance of ingredients and their fussy description (the name of the producer, the cooking method...). Perhaps because of the confusing organization: there are three categories: Traditional Pizzas (3: marinara, margherita and, well done, Cossack); New (4), which is already not clear what it means; Don Ciccio's Selection, or My proposals, that is to say all the others (14). Which, on the one hand, are not the usual stuff, but original creations; however, on the other, they don't shine for originality, and rely heavily on the strong flavors of cured meats and cheeses.

And to top it off on a bad note, the ability for customers to create their own pizza—white or red base, vegetables, cured meats, dairy products—is a bit of an American thing, as they used to say. The craft beer menu deserves a definite mention: basic but well-thought-out, very much in keeping with the pizzeria's caliber (a consistency that, as we often note, is far from common: how often do we see pizzerias that aspire to gourmet status and make such a fuss about the quality of the ingredients, only to get to the drinks section and lose themselves in a glass of Peroni).

Don Ciccio's pizzas

And let the flavors be strong, then. 'O fuoco is essentially a diavola, but doubled: 'nduja and spianata calabra promise flames, but fortunately they don't burn the palate to the point of numbing it. But the real surprise is the Black Jack, which on a Margherita base features three ingredients, each with its own personality and seemingly unrelated: anchovies, 'nduja, and conciato romano. Against all prejudices—meat with fish? Fish with cheese? Anchovies with spicy?—the power trio works brilliantly: it doesn't explode, and it doesn't tire.

It all sits on a thin pizza base with a pronounced crust. The style, however, isn't Neapolitan; it lacks the charred bubbles and the undercooked parts, a result of slightly longer cooking times that, however, don't quite reach crispiness. The base is also slightly thicker, not impalpable. Italian-style pizza, as they say, and whatever that means: it works in the moment, and also later, during digestion.

Even the desserts, which change from time to time, are delicious, with a touch of originality, and generous in portions. The bill is proportionate to the dinner.

Opinion

A good place to stop if you're passing through, but also worth a visit. It may not be among the top three pizzerias in Turin, but it's definitely in the next tier.

PRO

• Average prices, for a quality that is decidedly above average.

AGAINST

• The menu is a bit crowded and confusing, not to mention the "do it yourself" pizza.