New South Indian Restaurant Explores Toddy Cafe Culture in New York

New South Indian Restaurant Explores Toddy Cafe Culture in New York

Chef Regi Mathew’s American debut is an ode to Kerala in Manhattan.

Toddy shops —which take their name from the naturally-fermented coconut sap drink — represent the core of Kerala cuisine to Mathew. “That is a place that showcases the true taste of Kerala’s vibrant food. It’s all about friendly gatherings [and the] communal spirit of Kerala dining,” he says. Chatti’s name refers to the clay pot typically used for Kerala cooking. The chef’s New York iteration is an upscale iteration of those, which traditionally have casual drinks and food.

For Chatti, Mathew spent the past three and a half years traveling through South India, visiting homes and toddy cafes. The restaurant’s cooking team comes straight from the subcontinent, too. There’s been a recent flurry of South Indian restaurants opening in New York over the last several years. That includes Kanyakumari (rooted in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu), Unapologetic Foods’ Semma, and even Boston-based South Indian chain Madras Dosa Co.

As another nod to toddy cafes, the menu begins with the Touchings section, as it is called in India. These dishes, which are meant to be eaten by hand, include the beef fry ($15), the Idukki potatoes ($12), and — Mathew is particularly excited about this one — the prawn pouches ($18). It’s based on a recipe from his mother, where the crustaceans are steamed in banana leaves with coconut masala and tamarind.

Elsewhere, there are larger soups; seafood options like scallops ($28), pomfret ($35), and lobster ($65 per pound) cooked in various preparations such as grilled with a gooseberry/peppercorn masala or fried with roasted coconut masala; curries like the duck mappas ($29) or the raw mango ($32 with prawns, $29 with fish); and a variety of bread and rice from steamed hoppers (a bowl-styled item made with coconut milk and fermented rice, $8) to butter dosas ($16) to ghee rice ($10) to mutton biryani ($18). Desserts include a pudding take of South Indian filter coffees ($14) and ice cream made with bird’s eye chiles ($8).

Drinks take that same Kerala approach with South Indian takes on classic drinks. They include the Elephant Whisperer, made with a banana puree, white rum, coconut, and prosecco; God’s Own Country, a gin and tonic made with hibiscus cordial; the Kandhari, a margarita made with bird’s eye chiles; and the Malayali Old Fashioned, made with toasted coconut and jaggery.

Chatti’s 3,500-square-foot space is meant to be warm, fitting 90 guests, with teak furniture, white walls, and minimalist murals — think palm tree silhouettes. The idea is that a visit to the restaurant feels like visiting a Kerala toddy shop — a bit more chill than that super-luxe wedding over the summer. “The food gives you the feeling of having been to Kerala and back,” Mathew says.

Initially, Chatti will be open from 5 to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and then noon to 11 p.m. Friday through Sunday. Reservations can be made online through OpenTable and Resy. Lunch will be added in March.