Hungary through the eyes of chefs: a weekend in Eger on two wheels with János Macsinka
“I cycle a lot myself,” begins the chef, who finds cycling a real form of relaxation. During each tour, he stops at a lakeside café, sits down for a coffee or lunch, and then simply keeps cycling. This form of transport shows us much more of the area than if we were to drive around the sights.
The Pöttyös Büfé on the shores of Lake Felsőtárkány is one of János’ favorite stops. He regularly stops here for lunch or a glass of champagne on his bike rides before heading on to the Bükk Mountains. “They cook really delicious, home-style dishes.” The lakeside buffet operates in a quiet environment, where – as he puts it – it’s worth resting or just relaxing for a bit.
However, the story of Pöttyös does not end here, János returns to their café in the city center of Eger primarily for the homemade cakes. He particularly highlights the thick dough filled with plum jam and the scones, which he believes are just as much a part of a weekend in Eger as a good bike ride.
If we continue from Felsőtárkány towards the Bükk, János says it is also worth stopping at Cserépfalu. He recommends the Öreg Tölgy Bistro for those who are planning a more relaxed lunch or dinner during the trip. Due to the characteristics of the area, it can easily be included in a cycling or car route, so it can be a great stop before continuing towards Szilvásvárad or the inner parts of the Bükk.
Tripe is also worth a detour
One of János’ favorite places is a buffet that he goes back to specifically for the tripe. “There’s a buffet on Kistályai út that I go back to from time to time just for the tripe. I think they make the best tripe in the area,” he says with a laugh. According to the chef, these are the places that show the true gastronomic face of a region. When he himself goes out, he doesn’t specifically look for elegant restaurants or special concepts, but rather for restaurants where a classic dish has been prepared with the same care for years.
To Szilvásvárad for a trout
If someone were to continue towards the Bükk, according to János, Szilvásvárad should not be left out of the weekend itinerary. The Szalajka Valley itself offers a whole day's program: we can travel by forest railway all the way to the Gloriett clearing, and from there we can continue our journey on foot towards the Fátyol waterfall, the trout lakes or even the Szalajka spring. You can also rent bicycles in the area, and the more experienced can explore the Bükk on mountain routes, but those looking for active recreation can also choose from various adventure and extreme sports opportunities.
But the chef returns again and again for one very specific stop. He considers László Sáfrány's smoked trout simply unmissable. The locally smoked fish is served with pita bread and coleslaw, and according to János, it's hard to find a better stop in the area.
There is no shortage of baths
After hiking at the foot of the Bükk Mountains, the nearby spas can also be a good stop, but János wouldn't necessarily choose the most famous beaches: he prefers the Turkish Bath in Eger, which he believes offers a much calmer alternative in the summer months. For those who spend several days in the area, it is worth taking advantage of the fact that the various spas are within a short drive of each other: Bogács, Egerszalók or even the Zsóry Bath in Mezőkövesd are easily accessible, so you can try a different place every day.
A coffee, a cocktail and a delicious breakfast
If we stay in the city center of Eger, the chef also recommends several places that are not necessarily included in every guidebook. Dopamine Bar and Café was included in his list primarily because of its special cocktails and coffees. “It’s a very small, cute place, run by a young guy, he makes really good cocktails and coffees,” he says. For breakfast or a light lunch, he recommends Kávésdoboz Coffe Bar & Deli, where guests can enjoy a delicatessen, sandwiches, and Szabolcs Szabadfi breads. He says this is also one of those places that is easy to fall in love with, but if you’re not looking for it with a purpose, you can easily walk past it.
And if we were to include a lunch or dinner: Point. Gastronomic Workshop. The young team started with the small plates concept, the aim of the menu based on shareable small plates is to allow guests to taste several courses at once. János is particularly happy that this approach has appeared in Eger, even if he thinks the public needs time to really get used to it. “I’m rooting for them to succeed.”
An unexpected tip from Eger
Although the name Eger brings to mind the castle or the Szépasszony Valley for most of us, according to János Macsinka, there are also places in the city that are perhaps less obvious at first. One of these is the Beatles Museum, which he is happy to recommend even to those who are not necessarily die-hard fans of the band. According to him, the exhibition based on one of the largest Beatles collections in the world is a special program that shows Eger from a completely different side. However, the city's cultural offer is not only museums; according to János, it is also worth paying attention to the current wine events and festivals, which regularly fill the city center in the summer and early autumn months and offer a good opportunity to get to know the wineries of the area in one place.
And if we were to take a short detour from the city, the chef says the St. Andrea Vineyard in Egerszalók is also worth a visit. The winery's name has long been a defining figure in the Eger wine region, and during the wine tastings, those interested can also take part in a cellar tour.
If we have one more day
If you still have time for a detour during the weekend, it is worth heading towards Lake Tisza. Starting from Poroszló or Sarud, the lake area can be easily explored by bicycle, while the landscape is completely different from that of the Bükk forests. “The good thing about Lake Tisza is that you don’t have to rush. You can go around it, stop for a spritz or lunch, and then continue your journey.”
The nearly 65-kilometer cycling route is one of the most popular waterfront cycling routes in Hungary, which more experienced cyclists can complete in one day, but due to the numerous stops, it is worth dividing it into two days. The Tisza Lake Eco-Centre, the lookout towers built on the water, the bird sanctuaries and the harbors all give us another reason to spend time there.
According to the chef, one of the biggest advantages of the region is that you can have completely different experiences in just a few days. A morning in downtown Eger, a bike tour in the Bükk Mountains, a smoked trout in Szilvásvárad, or an afternoon on the shores of Lake Tisza can all be part of the same weekend.
