The Best Dishes Eater Dallas Ate in May
Three words: olive oil pancakes. Make a reservation for brunch at this wine bar to enjoy them immediately. The kitchen skips butter and instead uses olive oil to make the pancakes, creating a surprisingly savory breakfast flapjack.
The menu here offers a wide variety of wonderful seafood plates to try, but on a recent visit, I found myself captivated by the simple ahi tuna tostada. Served on a double corn tortilla, the tostada features a first layer of smooth, whipped avocado, followed by. square-cut chunks of raw tuna tossed in a house garlic soy sauce that tastes like a fancier version of chamoy, sesame seeds, and thinly sliced green onions. I paired it with a cocktail called Blame It On The Juice, which I’d like to drink for the rest of the summer, made with Tanqueray, blanc vermouth, infused honeydew, suze, and a milk wash.
A trip to this dim sum stop near Addison yielded a night full of memorable dishes. My dining companion and I were impressed with the steamed soup dumplings, crispy shrimp balls, crab rangoon, and garlic bok choy. The star of the meal, however, was a plate of dan dan noodles with chicken, carrots, celery, onions, mushrooms, and black pepper coated with a soy-based house sauce, served as a special that evening. The decor was charming as well, and the staff didn’t mind that we hung out for hours to chat — and keep drinking wine.
Beet season is in full effect in Texas, and Goldie’s has a beet hummus that can’t be… beat. The dark pinky-purple dip comes with golden, crispy naan, still glistening with oils from the pan, and vegetables. We were served slices of cucumber cut on the bias and endive leaves atop a bed of Kiefer yogurt and feta cheese, accompanied by a healthy drizzle of olive oil.
There has not been enough appreciation for great nachos in Dallas, and considering how much I love the dish, now is time for that change. Culpepper Cattle Co. in Deep Ellum makes them perfectly. It’s a simple, classic recipe of refried beans, picadillo beef, and a shredded Monterey Jack and yellow cheddar spread evenly over the circular chips and baked until the ingredients melt together into a cheesy, crispy bite. My only complaint is that the plate is missing a scoop of guacamole. The jalapeños are freshly sliced and not pickled, which is a nice upgrade.
