Braceria San Lorenzo, the Viterbo restaurant where fire reigns supreme
B raceria San Lorenzo began in Viterbo as a traditional steakhouse, but in recent years it has undergone a profound transformation.
From meat to fish, how the San Lorenzo grill changes
Meat remains the starting point, but it's no longer the sole defining characteristic. Research focuses on the quality of raw materials, the provenance of the animals, and the sustainability of the supply chain, complementing Italian meats with international selections and Japanese Wagyu. Over time, the offering has expanded to include pork and other types of meat, culminating in the current interpretation of grilled meats, which now also includes fish, albeit in a thoughtfully limited manner.
What to eat at Braceria San Lorenzo
The arrival of chef Michele Vannini last April marked a further step. Another step toward making this restaurant a truly complete restaurant. One that, while focusing on meat and grilled dishes, also offers a varied gastronomic offering from appetizers to dessert. The cuisine has become more technical and contemporary, with a sensibility that nods to French tradition in the use of butter, cooking fats, stocks, and sauces, without losing its connection to the region. The pasta is prepared in-house, and the menu changes frequently, depending on the availability of raw materials. The menu thus veers between land and sea, featuring grilled meats, seafood, raw meat and fish, pasta dishes, vegetarian options, and, where possible, a special focus on a balanced vegan menu.
The aim is to avoid an overly standardized menu: the fish, for example, is chosen based on current availability, alternating shrimp, oysters, caviar, and other ingredients. The appetizers also follow this philosophy. The selection of cured meats and cheeses are two distinct paths, designed to showcase each product: from Iberian beef to smoked duck breast, from cured culatta to Mangalica ham, to cheeses of various origins and ages. Alongside these offerings, there are more distinctive dishes, such as the Panino della Tuscia, with house-made brioche, wild boar pastrami, Dijon mustard, and gherkins, or the Panino del Cannibale, with French-seasoned tartare.
Pasta and side dishes, the grill goes beyond the grill
Pasta represents another area of exploration. Among the offerings are pappardelle with wild boar, homemade hazelnut cream, and whisky, and cappellacci stuffed with foie gras and mallard, accompanied by cooking juices and grapes. Dishes that speak to a cuisine far removed from simple grilling, yet still embracing recognizable ingredients and, where possible, local produce.
The same attention is paid to side dishes, often considered secondary in grill restaurants: here, they become true culinary creations, from grilled lettuce with herbs to more intricately prepared vegetables. Even for vegetarians and vegans, the menu is designed without resorting to a rigid, parallel menu, using the freshest vegetables available and allowing the chef to create express dishes.
Braceria San Lorenzo and the importance of service
Service is also central to San Lorenzo's philosophy. For Uselli, the waiter shouldn't just take an order: he or she should know the product, be able to explain it, and guide the customer in their choice. The dining room thus becomes an integral part of the dining experience, with the goal of transforming even a seemingly simple dish into something truly memorable.
It's a vision that emphasizes continuity rather than trend. San Lorenzo aims to become a place to return to, building a clientele that doesn't come simply for the latest innovation, but for a recognizable and constantly evolving offering. This journey has also earned the restaurant a place in the Braciami Ancora guide and it aspires to further recognition, without losing sight of its primary goal: constantly improving the cuisine, the grill, and the overall experience.
Braceria San Lorenzo and a new project
And the project continues. Across the street from the restaurant, Bocado is being developed, a new concept dedicated to Spanish cuisine, from tapas to burgers, which will share some of the processes and raw materials with San Lorenzo. It's another interpretation of the same approach: starting with the product, carefully crafting it, and building an experience around the food that goes beyond simple consumption. A project in the works, ready to be revealed.




