The Masthead
Four desks, one table. Nothing reaches the page that a desk has not put its name to.
The Gazette was founded on a single conviction: that eating well is worth reporting on with the same care anyone else reserves for politics or money. It is edited as a daily of the table, not as a feed.
Aurelio Castellane, Editor of the Gazette. Sets the front page every evening and signs the paper's judgement on rooms and bottles. Thirty years at table, half of them on the other side of the pass.
| Desk | Remit | What it does |
|---|---|---|
The Dining Room desk | Restaurants, chefs and the craft of feeding people | Keeps the paper's book of rooms: who opened, who changed hands, who is cooking what. It is the desk that signs the criticism, and the only one allowed to call a room great. |
| Lucien Aubade | Columnist, Mise en Place | Writes the paper's one standing column. Was a chef de partie for nine years and has arranged more services than he has written pieces; he says the two jobs are the same job. |
| Margaux Devereaux | Restaurant critic, the Dining Room desk | Eats out five nights a week and writes about the sixth. Trained as a pastry cook in Lyon before she ever held a pen. |
| Tobias Wren | Rooms and chefs, the Dining Room desk | Keeps the book of openings and closings. Knows which kitchen a chef left before the chef announces where he is going. |
The Cellar desk | Wine, spirits, coffee and the long evening | Follows the bottle from the vineyard to the glass on the table. It also keeps the bar: who is pouring, what is being poured and what it costs. |
| Inés Alcubierre | Wine and spirits, the Cellar desk | Rioja by birth, Burgundy by education. Tastes blind and publishes the price. |
The Grand Tour desk | The table, country by country | Reports the world's cooking as it is eaten at home, not as it is exported. Works by region and by season, and takes its time. |
| Kenji Haruna | The Grand Tour desk | Reports a cuisine from the table it is eaten at, one region at a time. Currently writing his way through the Adriatic. |
The Bakehouse | Bread, pastry and the morning counter | The earliest desk of the paper. Ovens, counters, cheese boards and the small rooms that open before the city does. |
| Clémence Roux | The Bakehouse | The first desk awake. Bread, laminated dough and the counters that open before dawn. |
What a piece must carry
A place, a name and a date. A room without an address, a bottle without a vintage and a chef without a kitchen do not run.
What never runs
Anything that speaks to the reader as a customer: deals, tricks, rankings for their own sake, the furniture of other titles. Those pieces are not trimmed; they are dropped.
Corrections
A correction is published on the piece itself, not at the foot of the paper. If a piece is withdrawn, its address keeps answering.