From Peckham to Pimlico, here are the best things the CODE team ate this week
the CODE team
Spend enough time with Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, the chef behind the inimitable but imminently closing Casamia, and you might well pick up his Bristol accent – one that anyone who watched Skins as a teenager might be fondly acquainted with. Peter’s friendliness is infectious and his cooking lively and inspired. And so Casamia’s departure is sad but there is still Paco Tapas, which I visited for the first time on Friday. We had massive, messy gambas, quail stuffed with sobrassada, tortillas rich with bountiful yolks, and croquetas imbibed with so much jamon-tickled bechamel that I thought my heart would stop at any moment. In a good way. Paco Tapas will do for now, then. I’ll write more about what’s happening in the Casamia space soon. Josh Barrie, editor CODE was a guest of Paco Tapas.
Something forever floating along on London’s airwaves is the tired subject of Stratford. Far away, is it? Hard to get to? It isn’t really, and anyway even if it is, Allegra is there, on the seventh floor of The Stratford Hotel, looking far more elegant than it did during the 2021 National Restaurant Awards, where oysters were flung about the place like miniature seafood missiles and some people fell into bushes. I managed to manoeuvre myself in for dinner, having had the aforementioned lunch in Bristol. Perhaps I have gout. If I do, it would not be reaching to say that Allegra was worth it. Patrick Powell, a succulent Irishman, cooked us a tasting menu that did not droop or waver: fancy snacks – a black pudding muffin among them – preceded watercress soup resplendent with seaweed; perfect, pearly crab meat with courgettes; an enormous scallop, halved between two, resting on two portions of sweetcorn; and poached cod, happy with lobster mousse and a Gauthier Soho-like carrot tartare. Josh Barrie, editor CODE was a guest of Allegra.
I ventured down to Brixton to try Robin Gill’s new bistro and wine bar. It was no shock that all the food was excellent, from the flat iron steak to the smoked eel brandade. I would like to give a special shout out to the anchovies on toast, a dish that can be found on many a menu in the city, but not as good. I received some backlash from other restaurant owners for my Instagram story declaring them the best I’ve had, but they really were. We ordered another portion for dessert. Henry Southan, social media manager CODE was a guest of Bottle & Rye.
When Salon closed in Brixton, I was annoyed with myself that I had never been, even though I lived a mere ten-minute walk from the market. Levan, in Peckham, is the product of the same team, and is still going strongly. It’s another natty wine spot and well worth jumping on the Overground for. A rather delicious Bourgogne appeared with a wonderful minerality about it, a perfect pairing with the Comte fries and saffron aioli which kicked off the meal. Boring burrata was given a new lease of life with BBQ peach, bitter leaves and a sharp, acidic dressing. A highlight for me was the monkfish ceviche, with kumquat and fermented chill. Larger plates impressed, such as pork chop dressed in gooseberries and greens with a porky sauce. I will be adding Levan to my Peckham favourites, an ever-growing list with Kudu and Peckham Cellars. Harry Cromack, accounts manager.
On my way to dinner last week, I realised that despite living in London for over two years, I hadn’t been out for a curry yet. Ritu, nestled away on a tranquil road in St John’s Wood, served the perfect reminder of what I’ve been missing out on. It was a rather warm evening, and so when a wonderfully refreshing plate of lotus stem chaat arrived first, the tone for the evening was set. As we moved into mains, I found myself unable to stop dipping into a rather moreish take on butter chicken. However, my favourite dish was the monkfish curry, with a delightful mango and ginger sauce. I mopped up every last drop of sauce with my naan. When I find myself in St John’s Wood again, I’ll feel safe in the knowledge Ritu is nearby. George Gill, operations coordinator CODE was a guest of Ritu.
Part of the Cubitt House group, The Orange on Pimlico Street could be equally at home in the countryside with its rustic interiors. The pizzas come highly recommended, but on this occasion I was drawn in by the a la carte menu – crispy courgette flowers and grilled red prawns to start, followed by pan-roasted hake with baby gem and peas on the side. All very pleasant. And what’s more, it’s 30 per cent off the bill on the CODE app. Will Lake, COO The Orange is available on the CODE app.
