Lunch With Mr. Henderson

Crapanzano colorfully profiles the city’s characters, and here we read about a memorable lunch with Fergus Henderson of St. I was about to ask for a cup of coffee, when I saw him enter the restaurant. When I began trading my mouth to protest, he gave me that pink-cheeked smile and, kindly cutting me off, told reporters simply: “because.” “Because” to Fergus is because it is life, since it is good, as it can be even better with a glass of Champagne, since I am your host, as we will feast and be merry, since all will be well, as why not?

I drank the Champagne, of course, and all was indeed as his smile had promised. At noon, Fergus led me up the stairs to lunch in the dining room with Trevor Gulliver, his longtime business partner. “The London Cookbook” features 100 recipes from the city’s best restaurants.

We’d followed the Champagne with a crisp white and a full-bodied red and then vintage port to accompany the cheese course of Welsh Rarebit. Moreover, we’d eaten one of the great meals of my life, including this plaice with salsify and capers. When ordering, he promised it would have a “delicate and subtle, creamy flavor” that would make it “a perfect partner to plaice.” Having learned that absolute submission was the wisest approach to this lunch, I nodded happily.

By the time we’d moved on to Apple and Calvados Cake, my happiness held a sharp note of sadness. He no longer dances with Margot (his wife) on tables, as they are known to have done—this he informed me, ever the stoic, making light of heartbreak for the sake of others.

In the words of Fergus: First, prepare the salsify. Lightly brush away the excess soil, then remove the remaining dirt by immersing it in cold water and gently cleaning with a brush that is not too stiff. 2.

Place the whole roots in a braising pan or small roasting pan and cover with water, add a little salt, and cover with foil. Pour off the water and then cover the pan in plastic wrap so that the roots continue to steam.

When cooled slightly, peel away the outer skin with a small knife, and cut into 2 1⁄2-inch lengths. 4. In a little olive oil, until golden. 5, in a large heavy frying pan, fry the plaice, skin-side down.

Place the pan in the oven for about 4 minutes. Turn the plaice over, and add the salsify batons to the pan.

Return to the oven for about 3 minutes, even if obviously this will be determined by the thickness of your plaice. 6. When just cooked, lift out the fish and place the pan back on a medium to high heat.