Fine Dining: Restaurant Loumi opens in Berlin
Fine dining in Berlin: At Loumi, Europe meets Japan
A thoughtfully designed space in a successful new building near the Prinzenbad; warm colors, clear shapes, soft light, concentrated work in the open kitchen, a colorful mix of fans and foodies at the tables, the atmosphere: young, international, enjoyably relaxed.
The dream of fine dining
“While others are scaling back, we’ve gone in the opposite direction and fulfilled our dream of fine dining,” says hostess Mical Rosenblat. The second member of the team is chef Karl-Louis Kömmler. The two already caused a stir with their first “Loumi” (by Louis and Mical), their supper club in a Neukölln backyard apartment. Kömmler, who started as a self-taught chef, gathered new ideas from Atsushi Tanaka in Paris, Jeremy Changs in London, and also from Benjamin Gallein at “Votum” in Hanover.
Relaxed hospitality with the kitchen at the heart of it all.
An eight-course creative menu is served, based on classic cuisine with influences from Japan and Northern Europe. Sweet and earthy notes and gentle spiciness were harmoniously combined in the Breton-farmed abalone, poached in dashi and sake and then seared, with kombu seaweed, fluffy chawanmushi (Japanese egg custard), yuzu zest, grilled pear, and Espelette pepper sauce. The breast of the Challans duck, aged for ten days in a aging cabinet, was wonderfully succulent and aromatic. Kömmler served it with intense Kampot pepper, sauce albufera, and morels stuffed with pulled leg meat. The grand finale: a refreshing citrus sorbet with candied mandarin peel, nori seaweed, caramelized black garlic, and crème chantilly refined with oolong tea.
Mical Rosenblat has her favorite wines from Germany, France and South Africa ready for each course, and the range, she says, goes "from completely classic to sometimes funky".
Gourmet rating
Concept: Fine dining in a relaxed atmosphere, with Japanese and Nordic influences. Seating at tables or at the kitchen counter. A menu (12 mini-courses) with additional complementary dishes. Cuisine: The "Loumi" is celebrated for its sometimes rare ingredients and subtly minimalist presentation: Breton lobster with Mara-de-Bois strawberry unites two French imports into a juicy and fruity finger food; diced otoro (fatty tuna belly) bathes in a citrusy-green broth with fresh wasabi. In the abalone with sweet tomato and lardo, the umami flavors of bacon and fruit dominate the sea snail; grilled quail and chanterelles swim in a richly meaty bouillon. Wine: Bottled wines are less exclusive than the usual product range, but the glass pairings can be even more harmonious. Atmosphere: Modernly styled with glass, exposed concrete, and warm lighting; the kitchen counter seating is particularly exciting. Atmospheric yet unpretentious hospitality – more of this, please. In conclusion: A successful overall package with a sophisticated core product.
