Colors and flavors to consider when buying ground sumac
Sumac, a spice much appreciated by chef Alton Brown, is usually found in Mediterranean shops, where it is advisable to check its freshness.
When buying sumac, first look at the color. Although it's sometimes sold whole, it's more commonly found ground. Deep red sumac indicates that the berries were ripe and the spice was ground shortly after harvesting. The duller the color, the less fresh it is.
The taste and aroma also betray its freshness. If the store allows you to sample the spice, a little reveals its acidity, which is usually slightly citrusy. The aroma should be floral and fresh.
Texture is another clue. After harvesting, the berries are ground to separate the seeds and then strained. Most store-bought sumac has a slightly coarse texture, and the larger pieces add more intensity to any dish.
Store it in an airtight container, away from heat and direct light, and it will stay fresh for up to a year. Use it in homemade hummus, chicken kebabs, or salads, or sprinkle it over desserts and meats for color and a rich flavor.
It is also an essential ingredient in za'atar, a blend that combines sumac, salt, sesame seeds, marjoram, thyme, and oregano. It is used to marinate meats and vegetables, and is also added to pita bread.
