Apollonia's Pizzeria represents the essence of Los Angeles pizzerias
For more than a decade, Justin De Leon has been drawing crowds to Koreatown with thin, square, New York-style pizzas, somewhere between Detroit pizza and focaccia.
At Apollonia's Pizzeria, pizza serves as the canvas for its owner, Justin De Leon, to explore the possibilities of a pizzeria in Los Angeles. For more than a decade, crowds have made their way through the narrow parking lot of the Koreatown mall where Apollonia's is located to get a slice of its crispy pizzas.
Thin-crust, New York-style pizzas form the core of the menu. The secret lies in the dough, sturdy enough to fold with one hand, and a base that retains its crispness the next day. The square pizzas are somewhere between Detroit-style pizza and bubbly focaccia, their high-bubble interior reminiscent of Gothic rose windows.
The waits can be long and the limited hours don't help, but nobody in Los Angeles does it quite like De Leon. The constant line proves it, even with the higher price tag and a bit of an inconvenience. Apollonia's now has a second location in Crenshaw.
The Acapulco Gold pizza, with its thin crust, replaces tomato sauce with a base of mozzarella and pecorino romano, and features sweet cherry tomatoes that burst in the very hot oven. Just before packaging, it's topped with dollops of creamy ricotta, a generous drizzle of truffle oil, and peppery arugula to balance the cheese's flavor.
The cult of the square, spicy vodka pizza endures. A square base is covered with a layer of vodka sauce with a hint of chili that wraps from edge to edge. Crispy, delicate cheese edges peek out from the sides like milky Dolomites overlooking pools of melted mozzarella.
The daily selection of portions always includes at least cheese and pepperoni. The cheese portion is a sure bet, and it doesn't hold back: the cheese, the tomato sauce with its intense umami flavor, and the firm crust combine perfectly. Ordering one of these portions is the best way to reduce your wait time.
Ordering online is the best way to get a full Apollonia's pizza, although the selection is more limited and a 16% service charge is automatically added to each order. The convenience can outweigh that charge if you want to guarantee a pickup time. Online service isn't always available, even during business hours, so it's best to check back later, call the restaurant, or accept the wait and pick it up in person.
Apollonia's is famous for its signature pizzas, but you can also create your own by ordering over the phone or in person. You can choose a 14- or 20-inch round pizza with toppings like garlic, arugula, and Italian sausage.
