Review of Vincenzo Capuano: Turin's Neapolitan pizzeria that's making waves on social media
Vincenzo Capuano, a Neapolitan pizza chef known on social media, opens a pizzeria in Turin that does not accept reservations and already has a queue at the door.
The restaurant is in a very central location, near Piazza San Carlo and Porta Nuova, just steps from the elegant Via Mazzini. In the same area, on Via Andrea Doria, there are two other pizzerias: the Neapolitan Assaje and the historic Lampra, right next door. The restaurant doesn't take reservations, as is typical of Neapolitan chains with long-established brands, which keeps the dining room full.
The place has two floors, one of them quite depressing. The atmosphere is contemporary, with neon signs, checkered floors, and green sofas covering the walls, not very comfortable for eating pizza. The music is somewhat schizophrenic. The service is very fast, even during peak hours, but the restrooms don't have locks.
The menu begins with a photo of Capuano and his grandfather and the slogan "pizza makers for three generations." It features appetizers like montanare, crocché, frittatina, bruschetta, and mozzarella, three salads, and 28 pizzas divided into traditional (8), calzones (2), innovative (5), seasonal (4), iconic family pizzas (2), and Capuano's own creations (7). The drinks selection is limited: three draft beers, a red lager and a weiss, and a single craft IPA.
The pizzas are good, though with a few flaws. The fried dishes, like the frittatine and montanarine pasta, are a bit greasy but excellent. The burrata with anchovies and lemon zest, the Grana Padano fondue with fried zucchini, and the pistachio, mortadella, and ricotta pizza are standouts. The Margherita is top-notch, while the buffalo mozzarella is a bit watery. In the Diavola, the spicy salami is almost nonexistent. The Melanzanella, with slow-cooked cherry tomatoes, burrata, and fiordilatte, is somewhere between a parmigiana and pasta alla norma. The Don Egidio, with creamy fried zucchini and fried meatballs, is spectacular.
The crust is thick and more moist, though not as thick as a canotto. The cooking is concentrated too much on the top, sometimes resulting in a burnt crust and a somewhat pale base. The interior isn't as fluffy as it appears online and is sometimes dense, almost raw. The ingredients are excellent, however, and the bill comes to over €20 per person.
The restaurant reflects the strengths and weaknesses of the increasingly large Neapolitan chains. It's worth a visit for the quality of its ingredients, although the drinks menu, with only a few beers, leaves something to be desired.
