Tips for enjoying a Bavarian beer garden
Bavaria's beer gardens are "an expression of the Bavarian lifestyle," according to the Bavarian Beer Garden Ordinance.
The regulations do not specify whether these gardens can exist outside the borders of the state, but the best way to check is to visit them: the "Forstbaumschule" in Kiel, the "Prater Biergarten" in the Prenzlauer Berg district of Berlin, the "Hellers" next to the pond in the Volksgarten in Cologne or the "Schrebers Biergarten" in Leipzig.
An open-air Bavarian beer hall is recognizable by its gravel and horse chestnut trees: the crushed stone and shallow-rooted trees help cool the underground beer cellars. Those sitting in the shade usually choose between table service and self-service; the table service is easily identified by its tablecloths and menus.
On hot days, all of Munich gathers under the chestnut trees of the Hofbräukeller. Arrive early and, as a courtesy, ask at a table if you can join them. It's perfectly acceptable to use your first name, because a beer bank always conveys goodwill. However, sitting at the table of regulars is strictly forbidden, no matter how crowded the terrace is. When faced with an unpleasant table neighbor, the strongest and most socially acceptable rejection in Bavaria is a mild lament: "There will be two more." If that doesn't work, simply warn them about the wasps.
The liter of beer, the Maß, is ordered as soon as you arrive, and ideally, it should be drunk quickly, because it's not cold after thirty minutes. Each sip is accompanied by a toast; ten toasts per liter is a good average. The last sip is always left in the glass, because whoever drinks it is considered stingy. Don't underestimate the weight: a full mug weighs about two kilos, so it's best to hold it by the handle when carrying it. According to cabaret artist and Bavarian expert Harry G, "You shake the mug's hand and say: Cheers, farmer."
For many visitors to Munich, chicken, light beer, and oompah go hand in hand. Those who can't stand the band playing at the "Chinese Tower" can head to Sepp Krätz's lively "Waldwirtschaft" or listen to classical music at the "Hopfengarten" in Westpark. Upper Bavaria and Franconia are ideal regions for those who prefer to cook for themselves, as you can always pack a picnic; however, Foodora and other delivery services are prohibited, as is Thai takeout.
As for the food, the white sausage is served with honey mustard, not ketchup, and accompanied by rye bread with Obazda. Asking for cutlery for Steckerlfisch (grilled fish on a skewer) is considered ridiculous.
The terrace rules also regulate the protection of neighbors and the hours of operation, from 7:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. The music stops one hour before closing time, and half an hour later a bell rings to signal the end of service. Complaining about supposed provincialism changes nothing.
