Por qué el caso de Keith Lee en Atlanta importa, y por qué no

Lee is a former MMA fighter and TikTok content creator who regularly reviews restaurants, many of which are Black-owned or independent. He orders takeout, has his family pick it up so he won't be recognized, and then eats and rates the dishes in his car, from 1 to 10. His friendly and approachable style has earned him millions of followers and collaborations with brands like DoorDash.

Lee arrived in Atlanta from Las Vegas with his family the week the Michelin Guide was published. At nine restaurants, including Real Milk and Honey, Atlanta Breakfast Club, Lil Baby's the Seafood Menu, Toast on Lenox, and Old Lady Gang, he found exorbitant extra charges (such as a dollar for butter), questionable service standards, and on two occasions, he left without eating because there was no takeout.

Lee described his experience as "unique" and "incredible," highlighting three family-run restaurants where he ate well: Jamaican Jerk Biz, Juci Jerk, and The Dining Experience. These businesses, with small marketing budgets, experienced a surge in customers after his reviews.

The case of Real Milk and Honey in College Park illustrates the reach of online noise. After Lee posted about a less-than-satisfactory experience, many people confused that location with Milk and Honey on Cascade Road, which was completely different. Some people left negative reviews and even made death threats against the staff of the wrong restaurant. Lee rightly called it out: such behavior is unacceptable.

Food criticism has changed hands. Professional critics and social media influencers now move in the same circles, and media outlets rely on social media to share their reviews. Professional critics typically visit restaurants multiple times and don't reveal their conclusions until the final visit. Lee, on the other hand, maintains that he doesn't accept free food or preferential treatment and doesn't announce when he'll be visiting a restaurant.

What Lee is doing isn't new. Self-proclaimed critics have been around for two decades, from personal blogs to Yelp and social media, and many restaurants that criticize them invite influencers to their tables as part of their marketing. Some sponsorships are clearly indicated, but not all influencers are transparent.

Many of the establishments Lee criticized are obsessed with image and ambiance, with long lists of rules and dress codes. Lee used her platform to voice what many were thinking: "Atlanta, get better." The question remains whether influencers should be held accountable for the unintentional harm they cause to the businesses they review, in a city still developing as a culinary destination.