Taiwanese soybean paste, a fish-free alternative to oyster sauce

Taiwanese soybean paste is used extensively in the country's sweet and sour cuisine. Unlike fermented soybean paste, it has a more viscous, glaze-like texture. Lisa Cheng Smith, founder of Yun Hai Taiwanese Pantry, likened it to a balsamic vinegar reduction in an interview with Bon Appétit.

That comparison conveys consistency, but flavor isn't confined to a small portion of the dish. Melody Chen, marketing director of Kimlan Foods, a brand considered the creator of mass-produced Taiwanese soybean paste, believes flavor adds depth. It combines sweet and savory, and gives fish balls a shimmering sheen or a sauce a rich color.

For those who enjoy the sweet and sour flavor of oyster sauce but prefer to forgo the fish, Taiwanese soy paste can be a good alternative. Its color is similar, although the paste is somewhat thicker, as oyster sauce tends to be thinner. Both enhance the flavor and presentation of dishes, capturing the contrast between sweetness and saltiness.

According to Smith, the concentrated flavor depends on the processing method, the type of soybeans used, and the base sauce, which is also key. Although some commercial brands are scaling up production, Smith encourages people to appreciate the artisanal aspect of this soybean. This concept can also be applied to foods like olive oil or cheese.

The paste is used in both sweet and savory recipes. In Taiwanese restaurants, it's a common ingredient in various dishes, and at home, it can create a smooth sauce in stir-fries when combined with the cooking liquids. With vegetables, it enhances the flavor of broccoli and adds a glossy sheen to green beans. Because its texture is syrupy, adding a little liquid thins it out for a more even coating.

In desserts, a touch of salt can enhance the sweetness, similar to how some pastry chefs use miso and soy sauce. However, it's important to consider the baking time, as the umami flavor can prevent the dessert from becoming too sweet.