How to cold smoke cheese in a backyard
Cold smoking cheese is possible at home with a grill, a smoker or an electric hob, as long as the heat does not exceed 32°C.
A smoker is the ideal equipment for smoking cheese, provided it has good ventilation and temperature control. If you don't have one, a charcoal grill with a lid also works using the two-zone method: group three to six embers, depending on the size of the grill, on one side, cover them with ash, and then place wood chips on top. Keep the cheese as far away from the heat as possible, on a rack set over a container of ice.
Gas grills often exceed 32°C even on the lowest setting, so the cheese melts. One solution is to use the grill to contain the smoke and produce it with an inexpensive 750-watt electric hot plate, on which the cheese chips are placed on an aluminum plate covered with perforated foil. Cold smoke generators, which are switched on at one end and operate with little or no heat, are another option.
When grilling with charcoal, it's best to use lump charcoal instead of briquettes, as the latter can leave a chemical aftertaste. The wood chips, preferably small, are chosen according to the desired flavor: apple or cherry for a mild smoke, hickory or mesquite for a more intense one. Pellet smokers tend to get too hot unless they have a cooling attachment. Cheeses like cheddar, brie, gruyère, mozzarella, or provolone work well, and it's common to pair strong cheeses with mild woods.
The cheese must be kept cold throughout the entire process. Before smoking, it's best to let it come to room temperature to reduce condensation, which can diminish the flavor. Cut it into small pieces, because the larger the surface area, the more smoke it absorbs. Smoke it for two to four hours with wood chips or pellets, turning the cheeses approximately every 30 minutes; 15 minutes is sufficient if using hay.
Next, any excess oil or condensation is dried, the cheese is wrapped in waxed butcher paper, and stored in the refrigerator. It rests for at least 24 hours, although ideally up to two weeks, as freshly smoked cheese can be bitter.
