Sacro Trattoria Agricola in Rome, direct, peasant cuisine has arrived in Montesacro

Sacro Trattoria Agricola in Rome. Opened on April 17, 2024, Sacro Trattoria Agricola immediately presents itself with a distinct personality that reflects the concept of authentic, peasant cuisine, as defined by the three young creators of the project: Alessandro Maggiore, Gian Marco Greganti, and Fabrizio Tegazio. A clear project, as we said, that follows the success of the La Tenuta restaurant, located within the eponymous property in Casaprota, in the province of Rieti (which we previously featured in this article). Then came the decision to open a restaurant in Rome, in the Montesacro neighborhood, bringing the countryside and traditional flavors to the city. And from what we've seen, they're on the right track.

A synthesis of experiences

Sacro Trattoria Agricola is a small and informal restaurant, seating just fifteen people inside, between tables and the counter, and about double that number outside (which, once completed, will welcome diners year-round, not just during the warmer months). The three Romans, but more importantly, friends and chefs, come from different backgrounds and have extensive experience in Italian and international cuisines: a rich and diverse background that allowed them to find common ground first at La Tenuta and even more so at Sacro.

Sacred, then, is the first synthesis of their experiences and knowledge, made up of osterias, pastry shops, street food, and gourmet and Michelin-starred restaurants. And "before" is a must, given that we're talking about 30-year-olds who still have a lot to say.

Raw material from Sabina and a paper that changes

If Sacro is a tribute to the neighborhood where they decided to open their restaurant, Trattoria Agricola makes their intentions clear. Starting with the raw materials, which are sourced almost exclusively from Sabina (where the partners commute to run La Tenuta), thanks to butchers and farms run by young local producers, like Marco Zonetti and his Podere Le Prata in Castelnuovo di Farfa. Local products arrive daily at Sacro, allowing the chefs to offer ever-changing dishes: the menu changes monthly, but there are also off-menu options based on "the excitement of the kitchen," they joke.

A free-spirited approach, far from the constraints of starred kitchens. Gian Marco, in fact, trained with Antonello Colonna at Open and Roy Caceres during his Metamorfosi days in Rome, but he also spent time with Massimo Bottura in Modena. These environments shaped his technique and knowledge and then allowed him to establish a clear, but above all personal, approach shared with the other members of Sacro, regarding what comes to the table at the new trattoria. This allows the three to offer rustic dishes and forgotten recipes, with the awareness of those who have studied and learned and then decided on the path to follow, while continuing to experiment and (re)discover.

The menu

Generous and tasty dishes, such as pork rinds with dried tomatoes and olives (10) and cod, onions, bacon and wild herbs (13). Try the pappardella with chicken in barbacoa and peppers (13), where the Roman tradition of chicken and peppers meets the barbacoa method, a preparation originally from Mexico, in which cooking takes place inside a hole dug in the ground (there is also a nice photo on the wall showing it).

And among the second courses we would like to highlight the generous slice of breaded wild boar, spinach and parmesan (15). Another strong point of the cuisine is the intelligent use of vegetables, wild herbs, collected at the Estate, and the large use of pickles and preserves in oil. Dishes described at the table directly by the three chefs, who alternate between the stove and the dining room.

The wine list is not predictable, mixing conventional and natural wines for a total of around 50 labels, in addition to Ritual Lab beers, a few draft cocktails and a small selection of gin.

Sacro Trattoria Agricola. Via dei Campi Flegrei 55, Rome. Tel. 334 3482826. Instagram Open Tuesday to Friday 6:00 PM–1:00 PM, Saturday 12:30 PM–1:00 PM, and Sunday 12:30 PM–3:30 PM. Closed on Mondays.