Lunch at the Presbytery of Épargnes with chef Yannick Prunier
In Épargnes, near Royan, the Le Presbytère restaurant occupies an old building surrounded by vegetation and somewhat removed from the hustle and bustle of the coast.
Chef Yannick Prunier left the region at a young age. He worked temporary jobs in Paris, Moscow, and Monaco, in highly prestigious establishments, and then wanted to return to be closer to his family. Together with his wife, also a chef, he was looking for a place with character, and he found it there, where he is celebrating his tenth anniversary.
Prunier describes his cuisine as bourgeois and generous, and he doesn't quite embrace the term "gastronomy," which can sometimes be intimidating even before you see the prices. The generosity is real: here, no one should leave hungry.
The meal began with a light gazpacho with goat cheese mousse, followed by a creamy risotto with the first porcini mushrooms of the season and seared foie gras. The confit sturgeon arrived with a fish stew made with local Merlot, simmered slowly to prevent it from drying out, and the fruit pavlova brought the meal to a close.
Among the specialties are stuffed razor clams that have become, almost by chance, a house specialty. Some customers return specifically for them.
Prunier speaks of his ambition as an owner: expenses, difficulties in planning ahead, and the need for sufficient cash flow to weather tough times. He describes himself as more of an ant than a grasshopper. As a source of inspiration, he cites Alain Ducasse, whom he met in Monaco.
To keep the business running year-round, the restaurant has expanded into receptions and catering, and the couple also manages a riverside café near Port Maubert. According to the chef, this diversification has become almost essential these days.
Le Presbytère is located at 30 route de l'Estuaire, Le Bourg, 17120 Épargnes, and is open year-round. It serves from 9:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays, and from 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. It is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Set menus range from €39 to €50, and a three-course weekly menu is available on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays for €22. The restaurant features a terrace overlooking the gardens and vineyards.
